Khusru Bagh

Prayagraj (Allahabad)

This intriguing park, surrounded by huge walls, contains four highly impressive Mughal tombs. One is that of Prince Khusru, the eldest son of Emperor Jehangir, who tried to overthrow his father in 1606, but was instead apprehended, imprisoned and blinded. He was finally murdered in 1622 on the orders of his half-brother, who later took the throne under the name Shah Jahan. If Khusru’s coup had succeeded, Shah Jahan would not have become emperor – and the Taj Mahal would not exist.

A three-storey pavilion-shaped tomb belongs to Shah Begum, Khusru’s mother (Jehangir’s first wife), who committed suicide in 1603 with an opium overdose, distraught over the ongoing feud between her son and his father. Between these two, a third, particularly attractive tomb was constructed by Nesa Begum, Khusru’s sister, although it was never actually used as a tomb. A smaller structure, called Tamolon’s Tomb, stands to the west of the others, but its origin is unknown.

If you linger around the tombs of Prince Khusru and Shah Begum, someone will appear with keys to let you inside, where you can see a beautiful array of nature paintings and unique, tree-shaped window jalis (carved lattices). You'll have to negotiate a price – figure on around ₹100 for all four tombs. Weekends can be busy here.

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Nearby Prayagraj (Allahabad) attractions

1. Nesa Begum's Tomb

0.15 MILES

An attractive Mughal tomb constructed in 1625 by Nesa Begum (though it was never actually used as such).

2. Prince Khusru's Tomb

0.15 MILES

The Mughal tomb of Prince Khusru, the eldest son of Emperor Jehangir; he tried unsuccessfully to assassinate his father but was instead blinded and…

3. Shah Begum's Tomb

0.16 MILES

This is the Mughal tomb of Shah Begum, Emperor Jehangir’s first wife, who committed suicide in 1603 with an opium overdose because of the ongoing feud…

5. All Saints Cathedral

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This impressive 1870 gothic church is a popular landmark but only opens on Sundays for a 9am service.

6. Allahabad Museum

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This extensive museum in the grounds of Allahabad's nicest park has archaeological artefacts, Nehru family items, miniatures and ancient sculptures,…

7. Anand Bhavan

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8. Swaraj Bhavan

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The house where former Prime Minister Indira Gandhi was born was spruced up for the 2017 centenary of her birth and is worth a quick look.