Meghalaya

Separating the Assam valley from the plains of Bangladesh, hilly Meghalaya (‘the abode of clouds’) is a cool, pine-fresh mountain state set on dramatic horseshoes of rocky cliffs. Cherrapunjee and Mawsynram are among the wettest places on Earth; most of the rain falls between June and September, creating very impressive waterfalls and carving out some of Asia’s longest caves.

The state's population predominantly comprises the Jaintia, Khasi and Garo tribal groups, who live in the eastern, central and western parts respectively. Though mostly Christian since the 19th century, these peoples still maintain elements of their old animist culture, including fierce clan loyalties, sacred forests where chickens and goats are still sacrificed and lively harvest festivals with mass dances in colourful traditional dress. Meghalaya's tribal groups also maintain their matrilineal system, with property and names passed down from mother to daughter, and men moving in with their maternal in-laws after marriage.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Meghalaya.

Bridge
Nongriat Root Bridges
The most fascinating sights around Cherrapunjee are the incredible living bridges – formed from rubber-fig roots that ingenious Khasi villagers have, over decades, trained across streams as natural pathways. Over 40 of these are said to be scattered around the Meghalaya hills and several of them (including an amazing ‘double-decker’) are near the jungle valley hamlet of Nongriat – a steep hike down 2600 steps (and up 500) from Tyrna village, 12km southwest of Cherrapunjee.
Museum
Don Bosco Museum of Indigenous Cultures
This well-displayed museum is a fabulous repository of tribal artefacts interspersed with exhibits on Christian missionary work. The self-guided visit takes about 1½ hours. The 17 galleries exhibit tribal basketry, musical instruments, weapons, objects of daily life, costumes and jewellery, along with dioramas, charts, maps, photos and videos documenting Northeast life. Afterwards, you can walk up on the roof for expansive panoramas. The museum is 3km north of the city centre; a return taxi costs about ₹400.
Sports Ground
Khasi Hills Archery Sports Institute
This is the venue for a 50-person archery event whose outcome is the subject of a highly popular betting game in Shillong, known as Thoh Tim or Teer or Siat Khnam. At tiny betting stalls all over the city, people wager on how many of the archers' arrows will stick in the target. Visitors are welcome to watch the fascinating spectacle and there's no entry charge.
Waterfall
Nohkalikai Falls
At 340m, Nohkalikai is said to be the highest single-drop waterfall in India. It's at its best during the monsoon, when its capacity increases 20-fold. You can see it from above from the viewpoint 4.4km from Cherrapunjee's market. Local taxis shuttle passengers back and forth (₹150 each way).
National Park
Balpakram National Park
Hilly Balpakram is traditionally considered by the Garo to be the ‘abode of souls’, where people temporarily go after they die, and is full of mythological associations. The 220-sq-km park is thick with wildflowers and butterflies in spring, and has some elephants and Hoolock gibbons, but is chiefly of interest to birdwatchers. A jeep road runs about 12km to a plateau, with some walking trails leading off it. Get permits from the forest office in Baghmara, about 45km west.
Cave
Mawsmai Cave
This 150m-long limestone cavern, with its low passages, is the most impressive of the area's easily accessible caves and very popular with domestic tourists. Mawsmai’s old monoliths, commemorating heroes and clan members, is at the turn-off 600m before the cave (6km south of Cherrapunjee's market). It's just as interesting but doesn’t receive the same attention.
Museum
Ramakrishna Mission
At the top of the hill in Cherrapunjee village, the museum in the Ramakrishna Mission (a Hindu spiritual movement with origins in West Bengal) has an interesting collection of Northeastern tribal artefacts from fish traps to fur hats, plus dioramas of tribal life, and a room with further artefacts, models and info focusing on Meghalaya's Garo, Jaintia and Khasi tribes.
National Park
Nokrek National Park
East of Tura, the forested hills rise to Nokrek Peak (1412m), the highest point in the Garo Hills. The summit is part of the 48-sq-km Nokrek National Park, which occupies the highest parts of the larger Nokrek Biosphere Reserve. The area is home to hoolock gibbons, elephants and a few species of macaque. To visit, hire a vehicle (around ₹2000) in Tura for the day.
Monument
Nartiang Monoliths
The Jaintia Hills are home to Nartiang village, 63km east of Shillong, where you can visit an intriguing complex of stone monoliths erected by different clans between the 16th and 19th centuries – the largest concentration of many monolith groups in Meghalaya.