Hilly Balpakram is traditionally considered by the Garo to be the ‘abode of souls’, where people temporarily go after they die, and is full of mythological associations. The 220-sq-km park is thick with wildflowers and butterflies in spring, and has some elephants and Hoolock gibbons, but is chiefly of interest to birdwatchers. A jeep road runs about 12km to a plateau, with some walking trails leading off it. Get permits from the forest office in Baghmara, about 45km west.
Baghmara's Tourist Lodge is the nearest accommodation. Other possible jumping-off points are Tura or Williamnagar, which has another Tourist Lodge. If you haven't come in a jeep, you'll need to rent one (per day ₹4000 to ₹5000) in Baghmara.