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Haiti
Due to government instability, the UK Foreign and Commonwealth Office advises against all but essential travel to Haiti.
The most common phrase in Haiti might surprise you. It’s 'pa gen pwoblem,' and it translates to 'no have problem.' Haitians use it in a dizzying array of contexts: responding to thank-yous, asserting well-being, filling awkward silences. Despite Haiti’s well-documented struggles, exacerbated lately by natural disasters, proud Haitians use the phrase sincerely, conveying an uncanny ability to live in the moment and appreciate what they do have, which is quite a lot.
Tranquil beaches, tumbling waterfalls and pine-tree-capped mountains dot the varied and striking landscape, easily rivaling the natural beauty found anywhere else in the Caribbean. The world’s only successful slave rebellion happened here, and the music, art and culture that came with it make Haiti entirely unique. As those who come to assist Haiti often learn, an encounter with the soul of this fascinating, beautiful country often benefits a traveler just as much.
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Top attractions
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Haiti.
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Grand Rue Artists
While most of Haiti’s artists are represented in the rarefied air of Pétionville’s galleries, a collective of sculptors and installation artists produces spectacular work in an unlikely setting, squeezed into the cinder-block houses among mechanics and body workshops on Grand Rue. In this Caribbean junkyard gone cyberpunk, the artists turn scrap and found objects into startling Vodou sculpture, exploring a heady mix of spirit, sex and politics, all grounded in the preoccupations of daily Haitian life. André Eugène is the founder and elder member, sculpting in wood, plastic and car parts to produce his vision of the lwa (Vodou spirits). Dolls’ heads and human skulls abound, alongside the earthy humor of highly phallic Gédé pieces. Jean Hérard Celeur, another of the artists, trained as a sculptor, and has done many of the largest pieces: life-sized statues of twisted wood and parts of car chassis, hubcaps, old shoes and a liberal application of twisted nails. Local children are also involved in making art, through the spin-off organization Ti Moun Rezistans. This hub of creativity is near Ciné Lido, set slightly back from the road. Look for the giant Gédé statue made from car parts and with a giant spring-loaded penis guarding the way. Just beyond this, Eugène’s house-museum is surrounded by statues, with the motto ‘E Pluribus Unum’ (‘from many, one’) hung over the door.
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Bassin Bleu
Tucked into the mountains 12km northwest of Jacmel, Bassin Bleu is a series of three cobalt-blue pools linked by waterfalls that make up one of the prettiest swimming holes in Haiti. Experience Jacmel will take you to a hamlet close to the pools via moto-taxi, then a local guide will escort you down an uneven path (at one point you'll rappel down a rock face) to the gorgeous pools, where kids often jump from high rocks. The three pools are Bassin Clair, Bassin Bleu and Bassin Palmiste. Bassin Clair is the most beautiful of the three, deep into the mountain at the bottom of the waterfall, sheltered and surrounded by smooth rocks draped with maidenhair and creeper ferns.You’re sadly less likely to see the nymphs that, according to legend, live in the grottoes, although be warned that they’ve been known to grab divers attempting to discover the true depth of the pool. While the mineral-rich waters of Bassin Bleu are a delight at most times of the year, they turn a muddy brown after heavy rainfall.
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Museum of the People
This small jumble of a museum attached to the mission is worth a stop on your way up to Kenscoff. There are taxidermied specimens of Haitian fauna (including a flamingo and a very sad owl), political propaganda from the Duvalier and Aristide eras and even some Taíno artifacts. Especially interesting is the exhibit of Vodou objects, which comes along with a disclaimer from your Baptist hosts. Leave your name in the guest log and a few gourdes.
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Musée du Panthéon National
This modern, mostly subterranean history museum, set below gardens, hosts a permanent exhibition chronicling Haiti’s history, from the Taínos and slavery to independence and the modern era. Fascinating exhibits include exquisite Taíno pottery; the rusting anchor of Columbus’ flagship, the Santa María; a copy of the fearsome Code Noir that governed the running of the plantations; the silver pistol with which revolutionary leader Christophe took his own life; Emperor Faustin’s ostentatious crown; and ‘Papa Doc’ Duvalier’s trademark black hat and cane. Architecturally, the design of the museum echoes the houses of Haiti’s original Taíno inhabitants. This design ethos is also visible internally, whereby a conical central light well illuminates a gold monument that recreates the cannons and banners found on the national flag. The bodies of Haiti’s founding fathers are interred below this tribute, and the names of other independence heroes are marked on surrounding walls.
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Promenade du Bord de Mer
Installed by ex-President Michel Martelly, this kilometer-long boardwalk along Jacmel's waterfront has become popular with locals as a spot to socialize and relax. It's magical to go for a stroll over the boardwalk's elaborate mosaic tile designs, checking out local jewelry and paintings, trying street food and saying hello to curious passers-by. Streetlights aren't always illuminated and it can get dark at night. Locals say it can get dicey toward the encampment at the end of the boardwalk; best stick to the crowded bits.
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Marché de Fer
Several of Haiti’s cities have iron markets, but Port-au-Prince’s is the original and the best. Constructed in 1889, the exuberant red-metal structure looks like something out of Arabian Nights. Although the Iron Market burnt down after the earthquake, it was magnificently and speedily restored, reopening on the one-year anniversary. It’s rich in food, art and Vodou paraphernalia. The southern hall is the food market, a full-on assault on the senses; the stifling air buzzing with the noise of traders and the tang of fruit, vegetables, meat and unknown scents. The northern hall is given over to a giant craft market, with the biggest selection of local arts in the country. This part of town can be a bit dodgy, and political demonstrations are known to erupt suddenly here, so you'll definitely want a local guide to escort you ( Voyages Lumière can sort you out). Be prepared for plenty of bustle, and a little hustle, too. Keep a close watch on your possessions.
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Grotte Marie Jeanne
About 45 minutes north of Port Salut, this massive cave is the largest and most impressive in Haiti. Visitors today can tour three areas of the cave, one of which is completely dark, and the whole thing takes about three hours. None of the guides here speak English, so bring a translator and call ahead for a tour. Since 1999, the cave's 36 known chambers on three different levels have been the subject of scientific studies and mapping projects. Indigenous Taínos used the cave to perform sacred ceremonies, and escaped slaves were known to hide in them.
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Maison Dufort
This recently restored gingerbread home is the first of its kind to be not only preserved by a nonprofit, but also opened to the public. The creamy-yellow wood and brick home was renovated by Foundation Connaissance et Liberté (Fokal), a nonprofit organization partnering with architecture schools countrywide, and is a shining example of Haiti's unique and charming architecture. Tours can be arranged through Voyages Lumière.
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Musée Colonial Ogier-Fombrun
On the grounds of hotel Moulin sur Mer, Musée Colonial Ogier-Fombrun and its old sugar mill are housed in a restored colonial plantation. It’s definitely worth a look: there’s an eclectic collection of exhibits, from a reconstruction of a colonist’s room to slave shackles. Official opening hours are optimistic – if you visit during the week, you may have to ask at the hotel reception for it to be opened.