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Like a microcosm of Africa, this tiny nation contains multitudes – of landscapes, peoples, cultures and plant and animal life. All of it within reach of the capital, Bissau. The jewel in the country's crown is the labyrinth of tropical islands that make up the Arquipélago dos Bijagós. Long white-sand beaches are lapped by waters brimming with fish. Hippos, monkeys, chimps and buffaloes thrive in protected reserves and hundreds of bird species call its vast mangroves and wetlands home.
The jokes, like the Bissau-Guineans' music, are loud but tender and that bowl of grilled oysters you ordered will be served with a sauce spicy enough to give a kick.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Guinea-Bissau.
National Park
Though it consists of several other islands (Ilha de Imbone, Ilha de Orangozinho, Ilha de Canogo and Ilha de Meneque), the heart of Parque Nacional das Ilhas de Orango is its namesake, Ilha de Orango. Travellers know the latter as the site of Anôr Lagoon, where you can spot rare and sacred saltwater hippos, which live in both the sea and freshwater. Besides wildlife and birds, there are breathtaking beaches.
Nature Reserve
Sandwiched between the Buba and Corubal Rivers, this 890-sq-km park is the largest wetlands reserve in Guinea-Bissau. Kayaking across placid waters on an early morning amid twittering birds (there are an estimated 250 species here) makes the effort to get here worthwhile. There's an observation post where you can sit, appreciate the view and tick-off sightings. There are also African buffalos, gazelles, hyenas, white hippos and crocodiles in the park.
Arts Centre
An inspiring community project that introduces visitors to the traditions of the Papel people. Pano de pente, symbolic weavings made by Papel men on large makeshift looms, are used in a variety of ceremonies and rituals. A visit to local workshops can be arranged. It's located at the entrance to Quinhámel.
Museum
Houses a collection of masks, sculptures and other ritual objects collected by an Italian missionary
Fortress
Surrounded by imposing, if decomposing stone walls, this fort, originally built in 1753, is the headquarters of the Guinean military and off-limits to visitors. After dark, exercise caution when walking past the fort, which is off the southern end of Av Pansau Na Isna, and the area close to the port.
Palace
The newly renovated presidential palace dominates Praça dos Heróis Nacionais at the northern end of Av Amílcar Cabral. Damaged during the civil war, its graceful, neoclassical facade now incorporates modern features. Security is suspicious of photographers aiming for a close-up.
Monument
Three separate monuments to martyrs of the 1959 Pidjiguit Massacre when striking dockworkers were killed by the colonial police force. August 3rd, the day of the event, is a national holiday. There's also a bust of Amílcar Cabral in the square.
Museum
Not really worth a visit except for its historical value as the birthplace of Guinea-Bissau's independence leader Amílcar Cabral (1924–1973). Might need to rustle someone up to let you in.
Notable Building
Greco-Roman-style building housing the Ministry of Justice.