Subscribe

Getty Images

The Mani

Covering the central peninsula in the south of the Peloponnese, the Mani is a wild, rugged region. From the steep foothills of the snow-tipped Taÿgetos Mountains to the pristine coastal coves, and from the tiny villages nestling amid olive groves, connected by threads of walking trails, to the arid landscapes in the south of peninsula, speckled with abandoned stone towers, the Mani has some of the most dramatic and varied scenery in the Peloponnese, much of it still wonderfully under-explored.

The Mani is generally divided into the Messinian Mani (or outer Mani) and the Lakonian Mani (or inner Mani). The Messinian Mani starts southeast of Kalamata and runs south between the coast and the Taÿgetos Mountains, while the Lakonian Mani covers the rest of the peninsula south of Itilo.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout The Mani.

  • See

    Patrick Leigh Fermor House

    Larger-than-life Patrick Leigh Fermor (1915–2011), a Hellenophile and marvellously engaging writer, lived just outside Kardamyli for much of his later life with his wife, Joan. A scholar and soldier (involved in the Cretan resistance during WWII), he is known among other things for his marvellous travel book on the Mani. His stunning home is open to visitors by appointment three times a week, though this drops to once a week from June to August, when it becomes holiday accommodation. Designed by architect Nikos Hatzimichalis, the house is a stunning example of the era and environment: airy rooms with nooks and Islamic influences, a Mediterranean garden, a pergola and private access to a beach cove. There's even artworks by Greek artists, among many visitors he welcomed to his house, along with intellectuals. Leigh Fermor's wish was that it be used as a writers' and intellectuals' retreat but also allowed the museum to rent it out for periods to balance costs. The house will be available for three months a year as holiday accommodation from 2020; see www.ariahotels.gr for details.

  • See

    Old Town Kardamyli

    Old Town Kardamyli consists of a fortified settlement with a handsome 18th-century church, plus restored tower, oil press and three-storey building. There are good information panels with explanations in English on traditional Maniot life. Follow the signs on the western edge of Kardamyli opposite the two supermarkets.