Samos

Archaeological Site

In a word: extraordinary. In 524 BC, when Pythagorio (then called Samos) was the island’s capital and a bustling metropolis of 80,000, securing sources for drinking water became crucial. To solve the problem, ruler Polycrates ordered labourers to dig into a mountainside according to the exacting plan of his ingenious engineer, Evpalinos. Many workers died during the dangerous dig, but the result was the 1034m-long Evpalinos Tunnel. In medieval times, locals used it to hide from pirates.

Beach

Follow the north-coast road out of Vathy for 10km and look for a signposted dirt road to the left leading to Livadaki Beach. Here, tropical azure waters lap against soft sand in a long-sheltered cove with facing islets. The water is warm and very shallow for a long way out, and Livadaki’s mellow summer beach parties easily spill into it.

Archaeological Site

It's hard to fully grasp the former magnificence of this ancient sanctuary of the goddess Hera, 4km west of Pythagorio, from these scattered ruins. The ‘Sacred Way’, once flanked by thousands of marble statues, led from the city to this World Heritage–listed site, built at Hera's legendary birthplace. However, enough survives to provide a glimpse of a sanctuary that was four times larger than the Parthenon.

Museum

Housed in two adjacent buildings, this handsome complex displays the contents of the Heraion (Sanctuary of Hera) near Pythagorio (from Polycrates' rule in the 6th century BC). The most famous item is the imposing kouros (male statue of the Archaic period). At a height of 5.5m, it’s the largest-known standing kouros. The museum is next to the town hall.

Public Art

Previously devoid of any special charms, the island's second capital has reinvented itself by inviting a group of internationally acclaimed street artists to use its many derelict storehouses and industrial facilities as canvasses, thus filling the dull landscape with large surreal images and a even couple of installations. Most of these can be seen in the port area while you are waiting for the next ferry.

Castle

Samians took the lead locally in the 1821 War of Independence, and this castle, built in 1824 by resistance leader Logothetis, is the major relic of that turbulent time. It’s situated on a hill at the southern end of Metamorfosis Sotiros, near the car park. The city walls once extended from here to the Evpalinos Tunnel.

Monastery

About 1.5km northwest of Pythagorio, the road forks right, past traces of an ancient theatre, before reaching this grotto monastery. The walk meanders up through old olive groves; it's a welcome respite from the summer heat and gives clear views to the nearby Turkish coast.

Museum

One of the best museums on the islands. The exhibits in this smart space include beautifully displayed finds from Pythagorio, plus striking pottery pieces spanning the 9th century BC through to Greece's golden age. Museum labels are in Greek and English.

Winery

Look for this handsome stone building opposite the new ferry quay to find one of Samos' best vintners. Winery tours usually take place when you show up, and conveniently include a free tasting, with several reasonably priced wines for sale.