Kasos, the southernmost Dodecanese island, looks like the Greece that time forgot. Deceptively inviting in summer, it can feel very isolated in winter, when it's battered by severe winds and imprisoned by huge turquoise waves. Most of its visitors are rare seabirds; most of the human returnees are Kasiots on fleeting visits. Come here, though, and you may well succumb to its tumbledown charm.
In 1820, under Turkish rule, Kasos was home to 11,000 inhabitants. Tragically, Mohammad Ali, the Turkish governor of Egypt, saw its large merchant fleet as an impediment to his plan to establish a base in Crete. On 7 June 1824, therefore, his men landed on Kasos and killed around 7000 of its people. The island never really recovered, but each year Kasiots return from all over the world to commemorate the massacre.