Justin Foulkes
Santorini’s main town of Fira is a vibrant place, having bounced back since the 1956 earthquake. Its caldera edge is layered with swish hotels, cave houses and infinity pools, all backed by a warren of narrow streets packed with shops, more bars and restaurants. And people.
Admittedly, the admiring masses cannot diminish the impact of Fira’s stupendous landscape beyond. Views over the multicoloured cliffs are breathtaking, and come sunset, crowds gather at the caldera edge for the greatest free show on earth. Behind the cliffs, however, the prices of fame are exposed: frenetic vehicular activity, meandering pedestrians along the roads (there are few pavements), and frenzied development.
Fira sprawls north and merges into two more villages: Firostefani (about a 15-minute walk from Fira) and posher Imerovigli (about a half-hour walk from Fira).
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Fira.
Museum
Opposite the bus station, this well-presented museum houses extraordinary finds excavated from Akrotiri, which has been settled since neolithic times. Check out the wealth of wall paintings, ceramics with a heavy Minoan influence and the glowing gold ibex figurine, dating from the 17th century BC and in mint condition. Also look for fossilised olive tree leaves from within the caldera, which date back to 60,000 BC.
Landmark
From Imerovigli, a sign points west for the track to Skaros, the conical peninsula jutting out into the caldera. Not only geologically interesting, it is also historically important, as it was the first of five kasteli (fortresses) built on Santorini in the 15th century to protect the islanders from pirate attacks. Earthquakes put an end to that, however, and the inhabitants moved to Fira. Walk out for great views and a perfectly situated church, but expect plenty of steps.
Museum
At the north end of Fira, this museum displays fascinating before-and-after photographs of the 1956 earthquake, along with centuries-old maps of the Cyclades, paintings, striking photography by Christos Simatos and 15th-century manuscripts.
Church
Sitting prominently on the caldera edge in Fira, the Orthodox Cathedral can be seen from many parts of Santorini. Built in 1827, it was badly damaged in the catastrophic earthquake of 1956. Fully renovated soon after, it is a known for its mosaics, impressive bell tower and rolling arches that create a peaceful courtyard. Inside, the church is adorned with beautiful frescoes painted by local artist Christoforos Asimis.
Church
The peaceful Catholic Cathedral of Santorini, dedicated to St John the Baptist, is off the standard tourist route and well worth seeking out. The church is attended regularly by the island's Catholic population (around 500 people) and masses are celebrated on Sundays at 10am (from June to September masses are also celebrated on Saturdays and Sundays at 7pm).
Museum
Near the cable-car station, this museum houses a few impressive finds from Akrotiri and Ancient Thira, such as vast amphorae and painted oil burners. Check out the chariot-racing images on some of the pottery. Info in Greek and French only.
Port
Sitting 220m below Fira – three minutes by cable car, or 587 steps by foot – the Old Port, also known as Fira Skala, is now mainly used by cruise ship passengers visiting Fira for the day. They generally arrive in the morning, then head back in the afternoon. The little port has restaurants, tavernas and small shops, and presents a stunning view from the foot of the caldera cliffs.