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Eritrea

The British Foreign and Commonwealth Office advise against all travel within 25km of Eritrea's land borders, (except the towns of Senafe and Tessenei, and the border crossings with Ethiopia at Debay Sima – Burre, Serha – Zalambessa and Kesadika (Adi Kuala) – Rama, plus the main paved roads leading to those crossings). Click here for more information.

Historically intriguing, culturally compelling and scenically inspiring, Eritrea is one of the most secretive countries in Africa. For those with a hankering for off-the-beaten-track places, it offers challenges and excitement alike, with a unique blend of natural and cultural highlights.

Eritrea wows visitors with its scenery, from the quintessentially Abyssinian landscapes – escarpments, plateaus and soaring peaks – to the deserted and desertified beaches of the Red Sea coast. Culturally, Eritrea is a melting pot with a superb array of archaeological sites that tell volumes of history. The cherry on top is Asmara, Eritrea’s delightful capital and a whimsical art deco city.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Eritrea.

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Tank Graveyard
Part junkyard, part memorial, the ruins of military vehicles from around the country have been dragged to this open field in the years since heavy fighting ended, and make for poignant reflection on the damage done during decades of fighting. Local families have made their homes in a number of shipping containers in the centre of the area, which you'll need a permit from the Tourist Information Centre to enter, but wander (and photograph) at will apart from this area. To get here follow Cemetery St past the Italian Cemetery until it takes a sharp left turn, where you'll continue straight onto a busy dirt path. The junkyard is soon visible off to the left, but for the densest collection of military hardware continue around to the western corner.
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Opera House
The Opera House, completed around 1920, is one of Asmara's most elegant early–20th-century buildings. It's free to have a look around during the resident cafe's opening hours. Or hang around and soak up the atmosphere over a coffee (nfa8; shockingly low quality by Asmara standards) or to use the on-site wi-fi (from nfa20 per hour). There's no longer a resident opera company in town, but on weekends it's often possible to catch an international football match projected onto the stage's backdrop. Inquire inside for details.
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Bowling Alley
A block south of the Municipality Building, the Bowling Alley is one of the few genuine 1950s alleys left in the world. It was probably built for US servicemen when they were manning military bases in the region. Wandering by here to admire the architecture is worth it. Don't expect to throw any strikes or spares, however, there hasn't been a ball bowled here in years.
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Fiat Tagliero Building
A futurist departure from the art deco standard that defines most of the notable Italian-era buildings in Asmara, this former petrol station was constructed in the late 1930s to resemble an airplane and may be the single most-photographed structure in the city. It's on the northwestern side of the large intersection at Sematat Ave and Mereb St.
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Medebar Market
Duck up northeast to soak up the atmosphere of the Medebar Market. No doubt you'll be awestruck the minute you enter this mind-boggling place. It's an open-air workshop where absolutely everything is recycled: old tyres are made into sandals, corrugated iron is flattened and made into metal buckets, and olive tins from Italy are made into coffee pots and tiny scoopers. The southeastern section, devoted to preparing and grinding spices, is also worth a look. The main entrance is on the intersection of Jakmeira, Sahel and Qelhamet Sts; look for the large brick gateway.
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Emba Derho
This small village on the road to Keren is within the 25km limit from Asmara within which travellers can move freely without permits, and the foothills that surround it make for a nice wandering day trip. An archaeological dig near the village was the origin of a collection of metal beads, earthenware pottery and glassware, some of which is now on exhibit in the National Museum. Take bus 18 (nfa2) from the square in front of Enda Mariam Orthodox Cathedral.
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Villa Roma
Opposite the Africa Pension Hotel, the gleaming Villa Roma is reminiscent of a Roman villa with its marble staircases, louvred shutters, curving balustrades and shady portico. It's currently the residence of the Italian ambassador, and so unfortunately closed to visitors (and photos).
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Central Market
North of Harnet Ave, the sprawling Central Market is one of Asmara's major attractions. The best time to visit is early on Saturday, when people come in from all over the surrounding region to sell home-grown produce.
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Enda Mariam Orthodox Cathedral
The Enda Mariam Orthodox Cathedral, just east of the centre, was built in 1938 and is a curious blend of Italian and Eritrean architecture. Its central block is flanked by large square towers.