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The British Foreign and Commonwealth Office advise against all travel within 25km of Eritrea's land borders, (except the towns of Senafe and Tessenei, and the border crossings with Ethiopia at Debay Sima – Burre, Serha – Zalambessa and Kesadika (Adi Kuala) – Rama, plus the main paved roads leading to those crossings). Click here for more information.
Historically intriguing, culturally compelling and scenically inspiring, Eritrea is one of the most secretive countries in Africa. For those with a hankering for off-the-beaten-track places, it offers challenges and excitement alike, with a unique blend of natural and cultural highlights.
Eritrea wows visitors with its scenery, from the quintessentially Abyssinian landscapes – escarpments, plateaus and soaring peaks – to the deserted and desertified beaches of the Red Sea coast. Culturally, Eritrea is a melting pot with a superb array of archaeological sites that tell volumes of history. The cherry on top is Asmara, Eritrea’s delightful capital and a whimsical art deco city.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Eritrea.
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Historians debate whether or not the ruins of Qohaito were once the inhabited walls of the ancient town of Koloe, a settlement that predated, but grew to commercial importance during, the Aksumite kingdom. Even if it wasn't, the city's impressively large remains – covering an area of 2.5km (1.5mi) by 15km (9mi) – are testament to its once-great stature. Though only about 20% has been excavated, it'll still take you a few hours to make it through the main sights.
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Overlooking the harbour just north of the gates of the Dahlak Hotel is the Imperial Palace, the original iteration of which was built by the Turkish Osdemir Pasha in the 16th century. The present building dates from 1872, when it was built for the Swiss adventurer Werner Munzinger. During the federation with Ethiopia, it was used as a winter palace by Emperor Haile Selassie, whose heraldic lions still decorate the gates and by whose name the building is still commonly referred to.
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Part junkyard, part memorial, the ruins of military vehicles from around the country have been dragged to this open field in the years since heavy fighting ended, and make for poignant reflection on the damage done during decades of fighting. Local families have made their homes in a number of shipping containers in the centre of the area, which you'll need a permit from the Tourist Information Centre to enter, but wander (and photograph) at will apart from this area.
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The Opera House, completed around 1920, is one of Asmara's most elegant early–20th-century buildings. It's free to have a look around during the resident cafe's opening hours. Or hang around and soak up the atmosphere over a coffee (nfa8; shockingly low quality by Asmara standards) or to use the on-site wi-fi (from nfa20 per hour).
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From 8am on Monday mornings, a small yard on the Nakfa road just before the edge of town comes alive with buyers and sellers from Keren and the surrounding villages haggling over livestock in a lively market. Though the name refers to the obvious highlight – the caravans of camels on the lower level – walk up to the higher terrace for a massive collection of sheep, cows and more.
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A block south of the Municipality Building, the Bowling Alley is one of the few genuine 1950s alleys left in the world. It was probably built for US servicemen when they were manning military bases in the region.
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The ancient House of Mammub Mohammed Nahari was built with magnificent soaring Ottoman-style windows on every side. Unfortunately they are particularly decrepit and, like the rest of the house, seem ready to crumble at any moment, so take particular care about wandering inside. Nearby are several large and ornate 18th-century Armenian and Jewish merchant houses.
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A futurist departure from the art deco standard that defines most of the notable Italian-era buildings in Asmara, this former petrol station was constructed in the late 1930s to resemble an airplane and may be the single most-photographed structure in the city. It's on the northwestern side of the large intersection at Sematat Ave and Mereb St.
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Dankalia is the name of the narrow strip of land about 50km wide that stretches south of Massawa down to Djibouti, about 600km along the coastline. You can't miss it on the map: it looks like a long peninsula protruding from the south of the country. It's a volcanic desert where you'll be struck with awe by otherworldly lunar landscapes.