Pafos was nominated joint European Capital of Culture for 2017 in recognition of its extraordinary archaeological sights. Unsurprisingly, these have attracted tourists for decades – as have more hedonistic pursuits. If you find the beach strip at Kato Pafos (Lower Pafos) too developed, duck into the back streets or head up to Ktima (Upper Pafos) on the hillside, which has a more traditional feel. More beach resorts are strung out north along the coast towards Agios Georgios.
To seriously sidestep the crowds, consider renting a car and searching out traditional rural villages where some of the best tavernas are located. If you have sturdier wheels, check out the unspoilt Akamas Peninsula, where there are remote beaches and some of the best walks on the island. To the east, the vast Pafos Forest is equally enticing, melting almost imperceptibly into the sombre tracts of the Tyllirian wilderness.