Jonathan Gregson
What did you come to Costa Rica for? To lounge on pristine beaches and ride glorious waves? To hike up volcanoes and soak in geothermal springs? To spy on birds and monkeys and get lost among ancient trees? The northwestern corner of Costa Rica packs in all this and more. Unlike any other part of the country, Guanacaste – in the far northwest – is a wide, flat expanse of grasslands and dry tropical forest, where savanna vistas are broken only by windblown trees. Further east, the Cordillera de Guanacaste rises majestically out of the plains in a line of sputtering, steaming volcanic peaks that beg exploration. Further south, higher altitudes create misty, mystical cloud forests, teeming with life. What did you come to Costa Rica for? Here it is...
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Northwestern Costa Rica.
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This beautiful cloud forest reserve came into being in 1972, when the Quaker community (which had already set aside a third of its property for preservation), spurred on by the threat of encroaching squatters, joined forces with environmental and wildlife organizations to purchase and protect an extra 328 hectares of land. Today the reserve totals 41.25 sq km.
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At the head of the Golfo de Nicoya, the 198 sq km Parque Nacional Palo Verde is a wetland sanctuary in Costa Rica’s driest province. The park’s shallow, permanent lagoons are focal points for wildlife, including the greatest concentrations of waterfowl and shorebirds in Central America. Several kilometers of hiking trails wind through the forests; boat tours (just outside the park) are an excellent way to visit the wetlands. Come during the driest months for greater concentrations of birds and animals and fewer mosquitoes.
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The exquisitely misty 310-hectare Reserva Santa Elena offers a completely different cloud forest experience from Monteverde. Cutting through the veiled forest, the reserve's 12km of dewy trails see much less traffic, retaining a magic that is sometimes missing at Monteverde. A recently upgraded observation tower in the reserve offers views all the way to the Arenal and Miravalles volcanoes (on a clear day). Open since 1992, Santa Elena was one of the first community-managed conservation projects in the country.
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This wild-animal shelter was started in the 1960s by the late Lilly Hagnauer, a Swiss environmentalist. It’s one of the largest shelters of its kind in Latin America, housing big cats including pumas, jaguars, ocelots, jaguarundis and margays, plus badgers, turtles, monkeys, peccaries, toucans and other birds that have been orphaned or injured. The ideal time to visit is between 2pm and 3pm, also known as feeding time. It’s located 4.5km north of Cañas on the Interamericana, near Corobicí.
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A fabulous mountain for hiking if you've got your own wheels and a keen sense of adventure. It's best to scale this at sunrise or sunset, and to avoid it during times of high wind (November to January).
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If you're pressed for time and in search of a quick, easy waterfall visit, Llanos de Cortés will do nicely. From the entrance, which is now guarded, you'll scramble down a steep trail to reach the spectacular 28m-high, 12m-wide waterfall, which you’ll hear before you see. The falls drop into a tranquil pond with a white sandy beach that’s good for swimming and sunbathing. It was once possible to swim under the fall and hike behind it, but new rules now prohibit this.
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Head here for everything you ever wanted to know about butterflies. There are four gardens representing different habitats; they're home to more than 40 species. Up-close observation cases allow you to witness the butterflies as they emerge from the chrysalis (if your timing is right). Other exhibits feature the industrious leafcutter ant and a tarantula hawk specimen (the wasp that eats tarantulas!) and lots of scorpions. Kids love this place, and knowledgeable naturalist guides truly enhance the experience with an enlightening hour-long tour (complimentary with admission).
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Santa Rosa is the southern sector of the Área de Conservación Guanacaste. Some 30km of hiking trails weave through this tropical dry forest, offering fantastic vistas of the Cordillera de Guanacaste and the Valle Naranjo. It’s also the site of two historic battles, with the small La Casona museum and Monument de los Heroes to prove it. Along the coast, Playa Naranjo is a legendary surfing beach, while Playa Nancite is a critical nesting site for the olive ridley turtle.
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Given its proximity to Liberia, this park (about 160 sq km) feels surprisingly uncrowded and remote. Named after the steamy main attraction – the active Volcán Rincón de la Vieja (1895m) – the park includes several other peaks in the same volcanic range, including Volcán Santa María (1916m). The park exhales geothermal energy, with multihued fumaroles, hot springs, bubbling pailas (mud pots) and a young, feisty volcancito (small volcano); all can be visited on foot along well-maintained, but sometimes steep, trails.
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