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Jonathan Gregson

Northwestern Costa Rica

What did you come to Costa Rica for? To lounge on pristine beaches and ride glorious waves? To hike up volcanoes and soak in geothermal springs? To spy on birds and monkeys and get lost among ancient trees? The northwestern corner of Costa Rica packs in all this and more. Unlike any other part of the country, Guanacaste – in the far northwest – is a wide, flat expanse of grasslands and dry tropical forest, where savanna vistas are broken only by windblown trees. Further east, the Cordillera de Guanacaste rises majestically out of the plains in a line of sputtering, steaming volcanic peaks that beg exploration. Further south, higher altitudes create misty, mystical cloud forests, teeming with life. What did you come to Costa Rica for? Here it is...

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Northwestern Costa Rica.

  • See

    Reserva Santa Elena

    The exquisitely misty 310-hectare Reserva Santa Elena offers a completely different cloud forest experience from Monteverde. Cutting through the veiled forest, the reserve's 12km of dewy trails see much less traffic, retaining a magic that is sometimes missing at Monteverde. A recently upgraded observation tower in the reserve offers views all the way to the Arenal and Miravalles volcanoes (on a clear day). Open since 1992, Santa Elena was one of the first community-managed conservation projects in the country. The reserve has a simple restaurant, coffee shop and gift store. Note that all proceeds go toward managing the reserve, as well as to environmental education programs in local schools. The reserve itself is about 6km northeast of the village of Santa Elena; the reserve office is in town. A private shuttle service offers transportation to the reserve with pickups from hotels, departing at 6am, 8:30am, 10:30am and 12:30pm. Return trips from the reserve are at 9am, 11am, 1pm and 4pm. You can book the service by phone or directly through your hotel.

  • See

    Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso Monteverde

    This beautiful cloud forest reserve came into being in 1972, when the Quaker community (which had already set aside a third of its property for preservation), spurred on by the threat of encroaching squatters, joined forces with environmental and wildlife organizations to purchase and protect an extra 328 hectares of land. Today the reserve totals 41.25 sq km. Because of the fragile environment, the reserve allows a maximum of 250 people at any given time. So as not to miss out, get there before the gates open, or better (and wetter), come during the off-seasons (usually May through June, and September through November). Taking a night tour or staying overnight in one of the lodges will maximize your chances of spotting wildlife. Some of the reserve's walking trails are very muddy. Even during the dry season (late December to early May) the cloud forest is wet. Many trails have been stabilized with concrete blocks or wooden boards and are easy to walk on, though unpaved trails deeper in the reserve turn into quagmires in the rain.

  • See

    Las Pumas

    This wild-animal shelter was started in the 1960s by the late Lilly Hagnauer, a Swiss environmentalist. It’s one of the largest shelters of its kind in Latin America, housing big cats including pumas, jaguars, ocelots, jaguarundis and margays, plus badgers, turtles, monkeys, peccaries, toucans and other birds that have been orphaned or injured. The ideal time to visit is between 2pm and 3pm, also known as feeding time. It’s located 4.5km north of Cañas on the Interamericana, near Corobicí. The shelter is still operated by the Swiss family Hagnauer, who are local legends in Cañas. This is a labor of love. The shelter does not receive any government funding and relies on visitor admission and donations to survive. Volunteers are always welcomed, but you must make arrangements beforehand.

  • See

    Butterfly Garden

    Head here for everything you ever wanted to know about butterflies. There are four gardens representing different habitats; they're home to more than 40 species. Up-close observation cases allow you to witness the butterflies as they emerge from the chrysalis (if your timing is right). Other exhibits feature the industrious leafcutter ant and a tarantula hawk specimen (the wasp that eats tarantulas!) and lots of scorpions. Kids love this place, and knowledgeable naturalist guides truly enhance the experience with an enlightening hour-long tour (complimentary with admission).

  • See

    La Casona

    La Casona is the main edifice of the old Hacienda Santa Rosa. The battle of 1856 was fought around this building. There are wonderful displays detailing (in English and Spanish) the old gold-rush route, William Walker’s evil imperial plans and the 14-minute battle breakdown. There are also exhibits on the region’s natural history. La Casona is located near the park headquarters (both are about 7km from the park entrance) in the Sector Santa Rosa. The original building was burned down in 2001 by poachers who were involved in another war, this one with park rangers. The rebuilt building has smoke alarms. Two hiking trails leave from behind the museum.

  • See

    Iglesia de Cañas

    An unexpected architectural landmark in this otherwise innocuous town, this Catholic church was designed by famed local painter Otto Apuy. The church (and its 30m belfry) is covered from top to bottom in psychedelic mosaics, taking the form of sinewy vines and colorful starbursts. The artwork's themes range from religious stories to jungle scenes. The church is striking from afar; up close, the intricacy and artistry are amazing. You'll also find some intriguing sights in the plaza across from the church: a massive white band shell is set up for concerts, while a lovely statue, Monumento del Boyero (a tribute to traditional oxcart workers) is fenced off from vandals.

  • See

    El Arbol Hueco

    There's no sign, no website, and last we checked, nobody was collecting any money for this delightful roadside attraction. It's simply a hollowed-out fig tree (or, rather, a few interlocking ones) that happens to have 'branches' creating an easy-to-use ladder. You can shimmy up the center of the tree and then your friend can take a sweet photo of you from the bottom, for the 'gram. Do wait your turn and climb carefully, as there's no safety equipment. To get there, take the road heading north of Santa Elena for about 600m, and you'll see a small, unmarked trail heading west. The tree is only 25m from the road.

  • See

    El Mirador Centro Turistico

    Don’t cruise through La Cruz without stopping at this oddly shaped ‘tourist and cultural center’ on the western edge of town. You might stumble across an exhibit or a concert, but the main attraction is the jaw-dropping 180-degree view of Bahía Salinas. You can also peek into Nicaragua from here. Note that opening hours can be inconsistent, and a longstanding cafe here closed in 2019. At the time of research, plans to build another were afoot.

  • See

    Ranario

    Returning to its former glory as the Ranario, or Frog Pond (it's changed names a few times), this place also features an insect house. The frogs are still the highlight – 28 species reside in transparent enclosures lining the winding indoor jungle paths. Sharp-eyed guides point out frogs, eggs and tadpoles with flashlights. Your ticket entitles you to two visits, so come back in the evening to see the nocturnal species.

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