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Shandong

Steeped in natural and supernatural allure, the Shāndōng (山东) peninsula on China’s northeastern coast is the stuff of legends. Its captivating landscape – a fertile flood plain fed by rivers and underground springs, capped by granite peaks and framed in wild coastline – can’t help but inspire wonder.

A lumpy-headed boy named Confucius was born here and grew up to develop a philosophy of virtue and ethics that would reach far beyond his lectures under an apricot tree. Three centuries later China’s first emperor, Qin Shi Huang, would climb Tài Shān, Shāndōng’s highest peak, to proclaim a unified empire in 219 BCE.

But Shāndōng is more than the sum of its historical parts. The energetic buzz in seaside Qīngdǎo ranks the city among the best places to live in Asia. This is Shāndōng’s real draw: you can climb mountains, feast on fine seafood, quaff beer and still find time to hit the beach.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Shandong.

  • See

    Tsingtao Beer Museum

    For a self-serving introduction to China’s iconic beer, head to the original and still-operating brewery. On view are old photos, preserved brewery equipment and statistics, and there are also a few fascinating glimpses of the modern factory line. The aroma of hops is everywhere. And you get to sample brews along the way (how much depends on which ticket you buy). If you want to keep drinking, Tsingtao IPA and yuan jiang are both on tap in 1903 Cafe (8am to 6pm), the brewery's own little pub, located by the ticket office. To get here, take bus 2 or 205 from Zhongshan Lu and get off at Tai Dong bus stop. Tai Dong will have its own metro station soon too.

  • See

    St Michael’s Cathedral

    Up a hill off Zhongshan Lu looms this grand Gothic- and Roman-style edifice. Completed in 1934, the church spires were supposed to be clock towers, but Chancellor Hitler cut funding of overseas projects and the plans were scrapped. The church was badly damaged during the Cultural Revolution and the crosses capping its twin spires were torn off. Devout locals buried the crosses for safe keeping. In 2005 workers uncovered them while repairing pipes in the hills, and they have since been restored.

  • See

    Zhongshan Park

    Within central Qingdao, Zhongshan Park is a vast 69 hectares of lakes, gardens and walking paths; it's an amusement park for kids and also the venue of lively festivals in the spring and summer. In the park’s northeast rises Taiping Hill with a cable car to the TV Tower at the top. Also within the park is Qingdao’s largest temple, Zhanshan Temple, an active Buddhist sanctuary. When you get off the cable car at the temple, look for a round concrete dome on the right. This is the entrance to a bunker, which the Germans used as a wine cellar, and today houses a wine bar.

  • See

    Governor’s House Museum

    This museum is one of Qingdao’s best examples of concession-era architecture – the former German governor’s residence constructed in the style of a German palace. The building’s interior is characteristic of Jugendstil, the German arm of art nouveau, with some German and Chinese furnishings of the era. It was built in 1903 at a cost of 2,450,000 taels of silver by an indulgent governor, whom Kaiser Wilhelm II immediately sacked when he saw the bill. In 1957 Chairman Mao stayed here with his wife and kids on holiday. So did defence minister Lin Biao, who would later attempt to assassinate Mao.

  • See

    Tianhou Temple

    This small restored temple dedicated to Tiānhòu (天后), the patron of seafarers, has stood by the shore since 1467. The main hall contains a colourful statue of the goddess, flanked by fearsome guardians. There is also Dragon King Hall (龙王殿, Lóngwáng Diàn), where a splayed pig lies before the ruler of oceans and king of the rains, and a shrine to the God of Wealth. A temple fair is held here annually during the Spring Festival.

  • See

    Little Qingdao

    In the shape of a qín (a stringed instrument) jutting into Qingdao Bay, this former island – which lends its name to the city – was connected to the mainland in the 1940s. The Germans built the white lighthouse in 1900 on the leafy promontory. It is an excellent spot for watching the city come to life in the morning; entry is free from 6am to 7.30am and from 6.30pm to 8pm.

  • See

    Shilaoren Beach

    On the far eastern side of town in Lao Shan district, and now with its own metro station, this 2.5km-long strip of clean sand is Qingdao’s largest and has the highest waves in town (decent for bodyboarding); it can be very quiet in the morning too. The ‘Old Stone Man’ from which the beach gets its name is the rocky outcrop to the east.

  • See

    Taiping Hill

    Rising up on the northeast side of Zhongshan Park, Taiping Hill hosts Qingdao TV Tower at its summit, connected to the base by a scenic cable car (one-way/return ¥70/120, 8.30am to 5.30pm).

  • See

    Protestant Church

    On a street of German buildings, this copper-capped beauty was designed by Curt Rothkegel and built in 1908. The interior is simple and Lutheran in its sparseness, apart from some carvings on the pillar cornices. You can climb up to inspect the clock mechanism (from Bockenem, dated 1909).