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Lanzarote's capital is a small, agreeable, south-coast city with a pleasant Mediterranean-style promenade, an inviting sandy beach washed by the sparkling Atlantic, and a disarming backstreet hotchpotch of sun-bleached buildings, unpretentious bars, buzzy shopping streets and restaurants of all kinds. Though a little thin on the ground for a Canarian capital, Arrecife's sights are well worth exploring, including a couple of castles, a pretty saltwater lagoon, an important art gallery and several César Manrique creations; you'll find the most historical charm in the narrow backstreets around the church and lagoon. All that said, Arrecife’s most notable quality is that it’s a no-nonsense working town that earns its living from something other than tourism.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Arrecife.
Gallery
Converted into an art gallery in 1976, on César Manrique's wish, the well-preserved 18th-century Castillo de San José houses one of the Canaries' major contemporary art collections. Aside from a couple of early works by Manrique himself, its thoughtfully presented rooms spanning the 1950s to 1970s star works by such greats as Miró, Millares, Tàpies and Lanzarote-born Pancho Lasso. It's a walkable 2km northwest of central Arrecife.
Museum
On a little islet just off the seafront promenade, reached via the 18th-century Puente de las Bolas or a more recent Franco-era bridge, the 16th-century Castillo de San Gabriel was originally built to fend off pirate attacks. Today it holds the Museo de Historia de Arrecife, with Spanish-language exhibits on the island's geology, flora and fauna as well as pre-Hispanic life, the Spanish conquest and the capital's history.
Museum
Tucked into the repurposed mansion of 20th-century lanzaroteño doctor and architect Fermín Rodríguez Bethencourt and his wife Manuela García Parrilla, Lanzarote's 2018-opened archaeology museum romps through the island's long history with excellent multilanguage, multimedia displays ranging from 16th-century ceramic vessels from Seville to an augmented-reality archaeological dig.
Lagoon
Fringed by homes and restaurants in a beguiling combination of mildly down at heel and freshly whitewashed (with blue trim), the attractive natural San Ginés saltwater lake just east of the city centre is one of Arrecife's main hubs.
Cultural Centre
Occupying a duo of 19th-century townhouses, this cultural centre was remodelled into an arts hub by César Manrique in 1973, then revamped once more in 2016. Exhibitions change every couple of months and there are regular live-music events plus a rustic-chic bar for tucking into tapas and Lanzarote wines.
Library
In the green-shuttered former Parador building, right on the seafront, this university library conceals four wonderful early César Manrique murals, including the stormily evocative El viento. Visitors are free to pop in (quietly) when classes aren't running.
Beach
If you fancy a dip, the city’s main beach is lovely: an arc of pristine pale-gold sand fringed with lofty palm trees and a promenade. It's safe for children, reasonably clean and, generally, surprisingly empty, with just a few sunbeds for hire.
Church
Dating from 1665 and featuring Tuscan-style columns, a neoclassical tower and a 17th-century statue of the island’s patron saint, this triple-nave church looms over Arrecife's prettiest plaza.
Architecture
This handsome mustard-yellow, tile-walled 1920s building was once the headquarters of Lanzarote's Cabildo; it now hosts rotating exhibitions.