Eastern Bhutan

Buddhist Site

An extraordinarily picturesque temple, Gom Kora is located 13km north of Chazam. The lush green fields, the monks' red robes and the temple's yellow roof combine with colourful Buddhist carvings and the rushing river to create an idyllic scene. The correct name for the site is Gomphu Kora. Gomphu denotes a sacred meditation site of Guru Rinpoche and kora means 'circumambulation'. The Guru meditated here and left a body impression on a rock, similar to that in Kurjey Lhakhang in Bumthang.

Buddhist Monument

Chorten Kora is large, but not nearly as large as the stupa of Bodhnath in Nepal, after which it was patterned. It was constructed in 1740 by Lama Ngawang Loday in memory of his uncle, Jungshu Phesan, and to subdue local spirits. In front of the chorten is a natural stone stupa, the sertho, which used to sit atop the chorten and is considered sacred. There is also a small goemba here. The popular Bhutanese film Chorten Kora was shot here.

Buddhist Monastery

The biggest and most important monastery in eastern Bhutan, Drametse is an 18km, hour-long drive on a dirt track off the main road at Thungari. The rough road gains 1350m, and you'll need a 4WD vehicle if it's been raining. The monastery was founded in 1511 by the granddaughter (some say daughter) of Pema Lingpa, Ani Chhoeten Zangmo, in a place she named Drametse, which means 'the peak where there is no enemy'.

Buddhist Monastery

The Mongar Dzong was established in 1930 to replace the original Shongar Dzong, although the original utse (central tower) dates from an earlier age. It's unusual because it has two entrances. There are four lhakhangs in the utse, including a goenkhang (chapel dedicated to protective deities) and the Sangay Lhakhang.

Buddhist Monastery

The dzong is on a thin promontory overlooking the confluence of the Drangme Chhu and the Gamri Chhu. It was built in 1667 by Mingyur Tenpa, Bhutan's third desi. The entire eastern region was governed from this dzong from the late 17th century until the beginning of the 20th century. Several tame jaru (goral or mountain goat) roam the exterior courtyards. Extensive renovations to the dzong were completed in 2019.

Buddhist Temple

A short drive southwest of town is this little-visited but interesting lhakhang, founded in the 16th century by the son of Pema Lingpa. As you enter the main hall, notice how the original entrance on the far wall was blocked up after the arrival of the road (in the interests of security), leaving a mixture of old and new murals. The handwritten texts in the corner were brought from Tibet.

Buddhist Monastery

Lhuentse Rinchentse Phodrang Dzong, as it is correctly known, sits high on a rocky outcrop overlooking the Kuri Chhu valley, with near-vertical drops on all sides. It has been renovated several times, most recently to repair damage caused by an earthquake in 2009. A three-day tsechu fills the dzong to capacity in December/January.

Buddhist Monument

Inside this enormous and highly decorated statue are three levels of chapels. The statue of Guru Rinpoche on the entrance floor has an open mouth and looks like he is about to speak. Upstairs are three dioramas of Zangto Pelri, Guru Rinpoche's celestial abode. The top chapel has a central altar featuring statues of five bodhisattvas topped by a Buddha with a female consort in yabyum, the union of wisdom and compassion.

Arts Centre

This arts and crafts institute south of town was opened in 1997 to provide vocational training opportunities for those who aren't continuing in the higher education system. Ten of the Zorig Chusum (Thirteen Arts) are studied here, including thangka painting, embroidery, sculpture, metalwork and woodturning. You can visit the school, watch the students at work and take photographs. The showroom has a decent variety of paintings, carvings, sculptures, bowls and masks for sale.