The ultimate weekend in Oregon's Willamette Valley

I’m a wine lover without a single brain cell that can process wine words. I talk a good game: terroir, tannin, vintage, dry, fruity, oaky, skin contact, palate, finish, minerality. But I honestly have no idea what I’m talking about, even after touring multiple vineyards in Italy, France, Portugal, Spain, California, Oregon and Washington state. I have spent time with vintners, sommeliers and distributors by the hundreds. Oh, and I drink a whole lot of wine.

These deficiencies, while humiliating, are not a problem when you’re visiting the wineries of the Willamette Valley (pronounced will-AM-it), Oregon. No one expects anyone to be anything other than thirsty and nice.

Easily accessed from either Portland or Salem, with fewer tourists than the aforementioned big-name wine regions, this 150-mile stretch has over 700 wineries – plenty of options for anything from an afternoon visit to a long weekend of tastings.

The most idyllic time to go is timed to the harvest in September or October, or anytime in summer, but I went in the offseason in February, specifically so I could start my trip hunting for truffles.

The exterior of a modern, flat-roofed building with floor-to-ceiling windows with a winter-barren lawn in front and trees in the distance on a sunny day. — Inn the Ground in Carlton, Oregon. Brekke Fletcher/Lonely Planet

When to arrive: For a long weekend, come on Thursday evening. It takes a little over an hour to get to the Willamette Valley from Portland International Airport. Or stay the night in Portland and drive to the valley the next morning.

How to get from the airport: Unless you’re taking an organized tour with pre-arranged transportation, you should rent a car. And if you're wine tasting, you'll need a designated driver.

Where to stay: In Portland, I stayed at Jupiter NEXT. I also recommend The Duniway Portland, a Hilton Hotel and The Nines Hotel (and its restaurant, Urban Farmer). When in the Willamette Valley, make sure you stay at Inn the Ground. This luxurious property (without the luxury price tag) is as environmentally friendly as it is breathtakingly beautiful – what a magical, natural oasis.

What to pack: Pack jeans and comfortable shoes with good tread. I wish I’d brought proper hiking shoes, but I didn’t because I’m a bonehead and ended up with mud-caked boots. I wore a Patagonia puffer, a warm hat, a sweater and gloves – layers are a must.

A group of people in winter jackets stand in an evergreen woods with a light yellow dog. — Truffle hunting in Sherwood, Oregon, with First Nature tours. Brekke Fletcher/Lonely Planet

Day 1

Morning

My flight from New York City arrived late Thursday night. I picked up my rental car and drove to Portland’s Central Eastside district, checked into Jupiter NEXT and went straight to bed to rest up.

Since this is Portland, I had high hopes for the coffee. Grendel’s is a few blocks from the hotel, so I walked over at 7am for coffee and a bagel. Both are locally sourced (from Columbia River Coffee Roasters and Broadway Bagels), and both were excellent. The cafe is perfectly PDX (as Portland is frequently called), with eclectic and unfussy decor and warm service.

How to spend the day

Travel Oregon arranged my itinerary, and my first stop was the The Allison Inn & Spa in Newberg, 25 miles from Downtown Portland. My mission? To partake in a midday truffle hunting experience among the Douglas firs in Sherwood. The tour, organized by local outfit First Nature, included a guided truffle hunt with a local expert (and an adorable truffle-hunting labrador named Joey, or JoJo to her friends), followed by a truffle-themed lunch at a local winery.

To dig up the truffles, we followed JoJo into the forest and stamped on the earth exactly where she was sniffing and digging. After tugging JoJo gently away by her leash, we dug our sharp spades into the earth, straight down so as not to accidentally cut the truffle. Some of these digs yielded nothing but dirt, but others were fruitful. It took me several attempts, but I finally found a tiny, pungent Tuber ogenese, the scientific name for the Oregon winter white truffle.

Afterward, I drove through expansive farm country to my home for the weekend: Inn the Ground in Carlton, part of a larger enterprise called The Ground, which includes the inn, wellness center, farms and a restaurant in a nearby town.

A martini glass filled with clear liquid and a sprig of lemon sitting atop a menu on a wooden table. — Killdeer gin martini at Grounded Table, McMinnville, Oregon. Brekke Fletcher/Lonely PLanet

Evening

I wasted no time settling into my room at Inn the Ground because I had to do a quick change to make my dinner reservation in downtown McMinnville (about a 20-minute drive) to dine at The Ground's restaurant, Grounded Table.

Downtown McMinnville is a Hallmark-like experience, especially at night when the lights are lit up. The old Mack Theater signage makes you feel like you've gone through a wormhole (the theater is currently under renovation). If it weren't for all the Teslas, you'd think you were in the 1950s!

Dinner at Grounded Table is an elevated farm-to-table experience, with ingredients, including beef and pork, sourced from The Ground's own Tabula Rasa Farms. I ordered a double cheeseburger along with a martini made with local Killdeer gin. I'm very glad I didn't meet the cows until the next day. Sorry, cows!

Two dark brown cows standing on hay and looking through the wooden slats of an indoor barn pen. — Heritage breed cows at the Tabula Rasa Farm in Carlton, Oregon. Brekke Fletcher/Lonely Palnet

Day 2

Morning

Now I'll fully explain the beauty that is Inn the Ground. Even in the dead of winter, even in clouded mist, there is something pure and visceral about this hillside retreat, officially a bed and breakfast, overlooking fertile farmland. I could write a poem about the bathroom, the bed, the coffee setup. Every detail was perfectly representative of the care and thought that went into the design and the experience.

Apart from the main building, which is stunning, there are trailers and a cottage on the property. A short drive away, you can visit the farm, feed the hogs, see the cattle and even play pickleball. Everything feels of a piece, despite sounding a little spread out. The hotel's farm-fresh breakfast – eggs, ham, homemade preserves and bread – is the stuff of dreams, a perfect start to the day.

How to spend the day

The first part of my day was spent at Durant at Red Ridge Farms, touring the expansive property and learning about Durant's olive mill operation from its current owner, Paul Durant. It's an extraordinary, complex process, and Durant looked to Italy to build out the mill, importing state-of-the-art machinery and pairing it with passion, patience and knowledge.

The Farm Shop on the property does olive oil tastings, no reservations required. Savor flavors like basil, orange and jalapeno, and discover new sensations as you do. The Durant Vineyards Tasting Room, however, does require advance reservations. Sit outside if you can. The views of the Willamette Valley and beyond, including Mt Hood and Mt Jefferson, are breathtaking even in the dead of winter.

For lunch, I drove to Red Hills Market in Dundee, a gourmet shop selling wine, cheese, housewares and all manner of local specialties. The chefs there make an unbelievable albacore tuna melt. Other temptations from the menu include vegetarian muffuletta, cobb salad and wood-fired pizzas. The shop also serves local beers and wines.

A wine glass with a small amount of pink liquid on an indoor table. People can be seen sitting at tables in the background, and trees and clouds can be seen through large windows on a sunny day. — Sparkling rosé at Sokol Blosser Winery in Dayton, Oregon. Brekke Fletcher/Lonely Planet

After lunch, I drove to the gorgeous Sokol Blosser for a seasonal wine tasting flight, which included its 2025 Willamette Valley Pinot Gris, 2025 Willamette Valley Chardonnay, 2020 Bluebird Rosé Sparkling and 2019 Sparkling Rosé of Pinot Noir, the last of which was off-the-charts delicious. I can still taste it. I only regret I was too full to partake of their food menu. I would have done some serious damage to the salmon mousse.

Dinner

Hayward (formerly in McMinnville, since relocated to Carlton) is probably one of the best restaurants in the Willamette Valley. Chef Kari Shaughnessy was named a semifinalist for the 2025 James Beard’s Best Chef Northwest the week after I dined at her McMinnville space. Her menus are seasonal, and the one I ordered from was summer camp-themed, but Chef Kari usually has an assortment of pickles and fermented vegetables. I devoured those, along with a bountiful mixed greens salad and a Sloppy Joe Tartare, served with cheesy crackers. She nailed it – I only regret I haven't returned since she opened her new dining room in Carlton. I'll be right there, Chef!

A woman with light hair and glasses, wearing a black shirt and green puffer vest, smiles and holds a wine glass while standing in front of a dormant vineyard with hills in the distances and clouds in the sky on an otherwise sunny day. — Brekke outside the tasting room at Bethel Heights Vineyard in Salem, Oregon. Brekke Fletcher/Lonely Planet

Day 3

Morning

After another delicious breakfast, I decided to hike (my hiking is more akin to very cautious outdoor walking) around the property – it has 8 miles of trails. I hadn't brought proper hiking shoes, and the ground was wet and slippery, but I persevered to reach Copper Cup Spring at the bottom of the trail, complete with a copper mug to sip some spring water straight from the source.

Lunch

I checked out of the hotel to drive to my final two stops on the trip. On the way, I stopped at The Diner McMinnville for an early lunch – its BLT is another sandwich triumph. It was Sunday, so the place was swamped, but this is a restaurant that's worth the wait.

Following lunch, I drove further south to Brooks Wine, where I was taken on a farm tour before my tasting. I know this is an offseason refrain, but even with bare vines and plants resting for the winter, the terrain is stunning. The tiny greenhouse is a ramshackle building with several young plantings awaiting their spring awakening. Bees were buzzing, chickens were clucking, and the air was crisp and clean.

After my tour, I enjoyed a delightful bowl of popcorn with a wee glass of Riesling and perused the vinyard's events and classes, including an upcoming spring equinox dinner and a sushi cooking class.

A plate of crackers and another with cheese and jams border a restaurant table setup with menu and wine glasses. Beyond, low forested hills can be seen through floor-to-ceiling windows on a sunny day. — Private tasting room at Bryn Mawr Vineyards in Salem, Oregon. Brekke Fletcher/Lonely Planet

How to spend the day

My second-to-last stop on this winey weekend was stunning Bryn Mawr Vineyards, outside Salem, Oregon's state capital. I toured its wine-making facility and experienced the most elegant tasting of my trip – and the most educational.

The owners set me up in a private tasting room with David Lauer, son of the winery's founders and the vice president of sales and marketing at Bryn Mawr. He walked me through each glass while explaining the virtues of the region: the vines, grapes, history, terroir. The hour-long tasting was captivating. I wish I were equal to the conversation, but Lauer was a patient and fun teacher.

Last but not least, I drove to Bethel Heights Vineyards, set in the Eola-Amity Hills since 1977, for one final glass of Pinot Noir and another exquisitely positioned tasting room with stunning views of the valley. There, I learned about the unique complexity of the volcanic soil where the vineyard's grapes are grown – the vintners noticed that the grapes developed distinct qualities, even though they were planted only yards apart.

And that's the Willamette Valley, a constant surprise that begs further exploration. This is a place you'll dig deeper, breathe easier and disappear into an agricultural wonderland to leave your worries behind.

Brekke Fletcher traveled to the Willamette Valley at the invitation of Travel Oregon. Lonely Planet staff members do not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.