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Montréal has earned a reputation as one of the top food destinations in North America – and indeed the world. A heritage of French cooking, an abundance of rich local produce and the contributions of generations of immigrants have created a uniquely delicious food scene, one that attracts travelers from far and wide. The city’s many culinary highlights include decadent smoked-meat sandwiches; bagels boiled in water sweetened with honey; and (naturally) poutine, browned fries, squeaky cheese curds and savory gravy.
Yet Montréal now has so many options that you could easily enjoy something different and delicious every day of the year – and struggle to find a better version of it elsewhere. In addition to that trio of legendary dishes, Montréal is becoming just as known for its spicy Portuguese piripiri chicken, saucy Haitian griot, crunchy Italian cannoli, perfectly crisped Levantine falafel...and much, much more.
Hungry yet? Here’s where to eat and what to order during your next trip to Montréal.
1. Portuguese Chicken Poutine at Ma Poule Mouillée
Best for a spicy twist on a classic
Poutine is the most beloved dish in Québec (and probably all of Canada). While Montréal has a few great places to eat classic poutine (Chez Claudette and La Banquise come to mind), the fries-based concoction is really more of a rural thing, best enjoyed at a greasy-spoon casse-croûte on the side of a highway or at a ski lodge. Still, you can count on Montréalers to level up the dish with a spice of something new. Case in...poutine: the Portuguese chicken version at Ma Poule Mouillée.
This poutine is made with Portuguese roast chicken, a Montréal institution in its own right thanks to the influence of neighborhood greats Coco Rico and Romados. Also in the mix are chouriço, São Jorge cheese and piripiri spiced gravy.
How to get it: Lines stretch out the door all day long for either the poutine or chicken, so be prepared to wait. When your order’s ready, take it to nearby Parc La Fontaine and enjoy it on a picnic blanket.
2. Smoked Meat sandwich at Schwartz’s
Best for a quintessential taste of the city
A Montréal-style smoked meat sandwich from Schwartz’s Deli is the quintessential city dish. The preparation was first introduced here by Eastern European Jewish immigrants in the early 20th century; today, in a demonstration of how Québecois the iconic shop has become, Céline Dion is a partial owner of Schwartz’s. As it always has been, the smoked meat at Schwartz’s is made without chemical enhancers and comes as fatty as you like. (Pro tip: don’t get it lean.)
Order the sandwich with slices of meat piled high between two pieces of rye, or get a plate of cold cuts to share. A Cott’s Black Cherry soda to wash it all down is obligatory.
How to get it: Sitting at a shared table with fellow hungry patrons is part of the Schwartz’s experience – just be prepared to line up along St Laurent Blvd, aka The Main, for a spot. The takeout counter next door to the original restaurant is quicker if you don't want to wait.
3. Falafel Pita at Falafel Yoni
Best for perfectly balanced bites
Falafel is everywhere in Montréal these days – yet the tiny, freshly fried balls of chickpeas at Falafel Yoni are a cut above. Loaded with red cabbage, Mediterranean salad and tahini, the falafel pita delivers the perfect combination of crunchy, savory, soft and fresh flavors and textures – not to mention just the right level of spicy (if you ask for hot sauce). The sabich sandwich – a smoother, sweeter pita with eggplant – is also unbelievably good.
How to get it: Find the branch closest to you: Falafel Yoni started in Mile End, and has since expanded to Verdun and Atwater Market.
4. Sesame Seed Bagel at St-Viateur Bagel
Best for sweet, hot-from-the-oven deliciousness
If you want to spark passion in a Montréaler, ask them about their favorite bagel spot. Only two answers are acceptable: St-Viateur Bagel (open since 1953) and Fairmount (1919). While both are totally delicious, for this writer, St-Viateur takes the cream cheese.
Boiled in honey water and much lighter than the donut-like monstrosities in New York, these bagels are best eaten steaming hot straight from the paper bag, or perhaps with a schmear of whipped cream cheese. Since the sesame seed bagel is the most popular, it’s also the most likely to be sold fresh from the oven.
How to get it: While St-Viateur Bagel has several bakeries and cafes around the city, head to either of the two locations on the Mile End street of the same name. You’ll probably have to wait a while if you want anything other than the straight-up bagel.
5. Griot at Marché Méli-Mélo
Best for heaps of Haitian flavor
Well before Caribbean restaurants became a craze in Montréal, Marché Méli-Mélo was serving stellar Haitian griot (braised pork shoulder) from a counter in the back of an unassuming Villeray supermarket, which owners Jean-Michel Baptiste and Jean-Marie Toussaint opened more than 30 years ago. The marinated griot here is city-famous, and comes with a selection of such sides as rice and beans, plantains or spiced onions.
How to get it: Cross the grocery store aisles to the back and order from the counter. You’ll have to take it to go as there’s nowhere to sit inside. Parc Jarry is a terrific option if you’re looking to linger a while.
6. Cannoli at Pasticceria Alati-Caserta
Best for creamy sweet treats
Dropping the name of this under-the-radar pastry shop in Petite Italie (Little Italy) is sure to impress locals. Open since 1968, Pasticceria Alati-Caserta serves to-die-for pastries, especially the crunchy sweet cannoli. The cream-filled delights come in various flavors like pistachio and gianduja (hazelnut with chocolate filling), in big and small sizes. If you’re celebrating, the cakes here are also incredible.
How to get it: The small pastry shop is located on quiet Rue Dante. Order from the counter and take your sweet treats to go.
7. Cheese Crowns at Cheskie’s
Best for traditional kosher pastries
This legendary kosher bakery in Outrement exudes heimishe (Yiddish for warm and homey) – and unites the community around its delicious sweets and breads. On any given day, you’ll hear Yiddish, French, Spanish and English in the queue at Boulangerie Cheskie’s. Many customers will be there for the chocolate babka – but trust me and try the cheese crowns, a shortbread pastry filled with crumbly cheese.
How to get it: Stock up during the week: the bakery is closed for shabbat from 3pm on Friday until 8am on Sunday.
8. Pork Buns at Satay Brothers
Best for a taste of Singaporean street food
We challenge you to find a better pork bao bun on this side of the Pacific than the one at Satay Brothers. This Singaporean street food restaurant makes its buns with a hulking cut of pork belly and a perfectly fluffy steamed bao bun. Hoisin sauce, cilantro and cucumbers top things off. You’ll need at least two.
How to get it: Satay Brothers has a full restaurant in St-Henri and a stall at Atwater Market.
9. Duluth Sandwich at Santropol
Best for a sweet/savory contrast
Santropol has been a mainstay near the foot of Mont Royal since 1976. The art-filled restaurant has plenty of tasty options – and the Duluth sandwich is a must-try. It’s made with caramelized onions with honey, pear slices, cheddar cheese and arugula inside thick slices of pumpernickel bread.
How to get it: If the weather’s nice, sit in the beautiful garden out back. You may have to line up as tables fill up with students during the school year.
10. Vegan Sushi at Momo
Best for culinary creativity
Chef Christian Ventura’s vegan sushi at Momo won’t leave you longing for seafood. Carefully prepared with plant-based ingredients and bursting with flavor, the “futomaki” and sashimi here are outstanding. The chic dining is great, too, and it’s hard to beat the proximity to postcard-worthy park Carré St Louis.
How to get it: This restaurant is casual but classy, so wear something more than shorts and a T-shirt. Reservations are a smart idea.
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