8 reasons why Livingston, Montana, is the best base for Yellowstone

Stretching between Bozeman and the north entrance to Yellowstone National Park is aptly-named Paradise Valley, where the jagged Absaroka and Crazy mountains tower above vast ranches and the wild Yellowstone River. Here lies Livingston, Montana, the kind of place that even the most avid travelers return to again and again. A former stagecoach stop turned railroad boomtown, it still hums with its old frontier spirit. But these days, alongside Western grit, you’ll find art galleries, excellent food, unironically hip dive bars serving mescal cocktails and sprawling farmers markets.

Writers, musicians, painters and iconoclasts have long found inspiration in Livingston – the late Anthony Bourdain once called it a favorite haunt – along with longtime residents John Mayer and Jeff Bridges. Murals add pops of color downtown and summer shows feel akin to watching your favorite band playing in your best friend’s backyard. Meanwhile, hundreds of miles of trails, natural hot springs and wide-open spaces as far as the eye can see beckon just beyond city limits.

Livingston isn’t just a base camp for Yellowstone, it’s a destination in its own right.

• When to arrive: Plan a summer or early fall trip, when you can fully access Yellowstone, the river and trails. At higher elevations, snow often persists until early July. Shoulder season prices may tempt you, but be aware that outfitters typically only operate May to September.

• How to get from the airport: Rent a vehicle at Bozeman airport (BZN) and drive to Livingston. You can order a rideshare or arrange an airport shuttle, but it’ll come with a hefty pricetag – plus, you’ll want your own ride once you get into town.

• Getting around town: A vehicle is essential for exploring, but the Windrider bus provides free weekday service around Livingston proper (mornings only on weekends).

• Where to stay: Both the Murray Hotel and Pine Creek Lodge are Livingston to a tee. The Murray was one of Bourdain’s favorite hotels in the world, and Pine Creek’s glamping tents and repurposed shipping containers offer low-key but memorable accommodation.

• What to pack: You never know what type of weather Montana may throw at you, so layers, particularly a packable puffer jacket, are key all year. Livingston is also notoriously windy, often making it feel several degrees cooler. Pack a swimsuit for the river and hot springs.

1. Livingston is a foodie haven

For a town with a population of less than 9000, Livingston packs a serious punch when it comes to dining. These days, Livingston is home to everything from Los Pinos’ New Mexico green chile stew to surprisingly good sushi at Neptune’s Taphouse and elevated, distinctly Montana-Italian fare at Campione, a cozy spot that landed on the New York Times’ 2023 “50 most exciting restaurants” list. 

Follow in Bourdain’s footsteps: Bourdain famously visited Livingston multiple times in the 2010s to film TV shows. He went to 2nd Street Bistro and the historic Murray Bar, right next to each other in the Murray Hotel, at least a handful of times. He also enjoyed the pasties at Pinky’s Cafe, a couple blocks over.

2. Outdoor adventurers will love the trails, rivers and slopes

Livingston is paradise – pun very much intended – for adventure enthusiasts. The undammed Yellowstone River runs right through town, offering rare Blue Ribbon trout fishing, white water rafting and lazy float trips. Stop into Dan Bailey’s to get set up with gear and guides. On land, trails like Pine Creek Falls, Natural Bridge Falls, Elephanthead Mountain and Hyalite Lake offer easy to moderate access to waterfalls and vast wilderness in the Absaroka Mountains. For something super low-key, Sacajawea Park fronts the river and has an easy trail. Winter brings even more options: Yellowstone’s Lamar Valley is a prime spot for cold-season wildlife watching, and Bridger Bowl Ski Area is 45 minutes away. Serious powderhounds will want to make the 1.5-hour drive to Big Sky.

Planning tip: Paradise Scenic River Tours and Yellowstone Wood Boat Tours offer leisurely, family-friendly floats. 

3. There's an incredible local art scene

Writers, painters, musicians and other creatives have flocked to Livingston for decades, drawn by its big skies and offbeat, inclusive charm. Today, that legacy lives on in more than a dozen galleries and studios downtown alone. Over 200 working artists live in Park County – art is practically part of the landscape. Come summer, the monthly Livingston Art Walk turns Main St into a block party with open studios, live music and wine pours, and artists often outnumber food vendors at the weekly farmers market. The Danforth Museum of Art, once the town’s sole gallery, blends contemporary works and Western flair, while the Livingston Depot Center sheds light on the region’s rail history.

4. It's just a one-hour drive from Yellowstone's North Entrance and not too crowded

Visiting Yellowstone from Livingston means avoiding (some of) the bumper-to-bison traffic. The park’s North Entrance in Gardiner is a spectacularly scenic one-hour drive through Paradise Valley, skipping the throngs of tour buses in West Yellowstone and Cody, Wyoming. Staying here lets you explore the park by day, then retreat to a slower pace, grabbing a local beer at Katabatic Brewing or catching live music on the lawn behind Pine Creek Lodge – without a reservation. Another perk of staying in Livingston: no sky-high hotel rates or battling for availability half a year in advance. 

Planning tip: Yellowstone’s North Entrance is the only one open all year. You can’t fully access the park in the winter due to road closures, but the North Entrance grants you access to the famous terraced Mammoth Hot Springs and amazing wildlife watching.

5. The cowboy culture here is authentic

Livingston somehow walks the line between old-school cattle town and new-wave cool, and nowhere is that more evident than in its deep ranching roots. Time your visit for early July to catch the Livingston Roundup, one of the state’s longest-running rodeos. A few times a year, you can even see a real cattle drive move through town, shutting down traffic in its path. Book a horseback ride and saddle up yourself. 

Fulfill your cowboy core dreams: For just five weeks each summer, you can book an all-inclusive stay at the very first dude ranch in Montana, the O.T.O. in Gardiner.

6. It's home to the diviest of dive bars

Drinking is proudly part of Livingston’s culture. Locals wear their favorite watering holes like a badge of honor and dives here are unironically hip, with just the amount of hard-earned grittiness. Start at the Murray Bar in the historic (and supposedly haunted) Murray Hotel, then walk over to the Mint. This dim, neon-lit spot with cheap drinks and strong pours holds the oldest active liquor license in the state. The jukebox and locals – which are just as often local ranchers and poets as they are A-list celebs – take center stage at the Owl Lounge. 

7. There are natural hot springs

There’s nothing like a post-hike soak in a steamy, mineral-rich hot spring. Paradise Valley delivers, with multiple options within a short, incredibly scenic drive. Chico Hot Springs, 30 minutes south of town, is a local favorite with two pools, a lively poolside bar and an on-site hotel and saloon. It’s welcomed guests since 1900, and it still has that rugged Western charm. Another option is Yellowstone Hot Springs, near Gardiner right along the Yellowstone River.

8. The live music scene is fantastic

Livingston’s music scene is so cool it’s a standalone reason to visit, specifically for the couldn’t-be-more-Montana outdoor venues. Just south of town, Pine Creek Lodge feels like an insider secret. The stage sits in the pines, with the namesake creek meandering through the grounds, twinkling string lights overhead and log seating. You can even camp overnight. Then there’s the Old Saloon in Emigrant, a few minutes further south. It’s one of the oldest bars in Montana, opening in 1902 to serve Yellowstone visitors traveling by train. Today, it’s a legendary summer concert hot spot, attracting big-name acts and up-and-coming talent alike. On the 2025 lineup: Aaron Lewis, Charley Crockett, Shane Smith and the Saints, and Oliver Anthony. The ribeye is phenomenal, too.