Two perfect days in Jackson Hole

Autumn in Jackson, Wyoming, is breathtakingly, achingly beautiful. It hit me the second we touched ground at the Jackson Hole Airport, one of our favorite tiny airports in the US and the only commercial airport within a national park. I was invited to spend two days in the region by Hotel Yellowstone at Jackson Hole, perched atop East Gros Ventre Butte, only a 15-minute drive from Jackson Town Square and 30 minutes from Grand Teton National Park.

It’s hard to find the words to describe the splendor of the fall colors or the clean chill of the mountain air in my lungs. The yellow leaves on quaking Aspens seem like nature’s traffic lights, begging you to stop, slow down and savor the fleeting moment. The glacier on the east face of Grand Teton is almost too bright; even clouds can’t tamp down the light. It’s a perfect time to be in this part of the world.

My visit was brief but momentous, and one I cannot recommend enough. Bookmark this one for next fall.

• When to arrive: Get in early if you can, especially if your time is short. My 7:30am flight from New York via Chicago got me in at 12pm Mountain Time.

• How to get from the airport: This is car country if you want to see as much as you can possibly see. There are also Ubers and taxis available. In the winter season, there is a $10 shuttle bus from the airport to downtown.

• Getting around town: You can use public transportation if you decide against renting a car. Southern Teton Area Rapid Transit (START Bus or START) runs within the town of Jackson and between Jackson and Teton Village.

• Where to stay: Hotel Yellowstone at Jackson Hole is an ideal location to access town and the national parks. More on my stay below.

• What to pack: Layers, hiking boots, comfortable clothes for walking and exploring, a bathing suit, a hat, water bottle and fanny pack. No need to pack it in advance, but you must procure bear spray before venturing into the wilderness.

Day 1 

Once in my rental car (somehow I ended up in a minivan), I drove 25 minutes to Jackson to grab some lunch. I took a friend’s advice and ordered a smash burger and a chocolate milkshake at Jackson Drug, which has been open since 1914 and at its current location on the north side of Jackson Square since 1937. 

How to spend the day

After lunch, I checked into the hotel. Within minutes, I knew this was a special place. There’s no front desk; you sit down with a host at a table in the living room (not a lobby at all), and they give you the lay of the land while you sip on a beautiful, pre-batched huckleberry lemonade. My first impression is the lasting one: Hotel Yellowstone is tranquil, beautifully situated and exactly the kind of place one should go to unplug and immerse themselves in nature. It’s intimate and remote, offering unobstructed views of the Teton Range and the Snake River Valley. Artfully planted wildflowers and perfectly imperfect landscaping add to the appeal, as do the elevated chalets that serve as Hotel Yellowstone’s accommodations. 

The design of these structures, which house four suites each, is a mix of modern and Western – this feels more like a family compound than a resort. The rooms are spacious, elegant and also homey. I loved the fuzzy chairs in the sitting area. In-room fireplaces light up with a touch of a button to add to the cozy, snuggly vibe, and there’s an outdoor balcony to listen to the stillness in your robe with a cup of Nespresso. My only note is that I could see other guests on their balcony in robes. So eyes front, people. 

Oh and the bathrooms have TOTO Japanese toilets. If you know, you know.

Afternoon 

I spent the afternoon alternating between the heated indoor pool, featuring retractable floor-to-ceiling glass windows, and the infrared sauna. Before I knew it, two hours had flown by. I encountered no other guests (though I did meet some people later). This solitude and quiet, with only the sound of my body moving through the water and my own breath - wow, more of that in my life, please.

The hotel spa offers multiple treatments by appointment, but after that epically relaxing pool and sauna time, I did not need it.

Dinner

Hotel Yellowstone’s restaurant, Olivia’s, is not quite fine dining at dinner, but it’s close. The service is excellent, friendly but also professional. You get the sense that the kitchen and front of house has everything perfectly choreographed so you don’t notice all the work that obviously goes into making every detail perfect.

So the food: I hate to sound overly fawning, but I could live on their bread and butter alone. I ordered the little gems with blue cheese and bacon and a delicious bavette steak. Dessert was too much after eating a loaf of bread, but there’s always next time.

Their sommelier chose a perfect glass of wine (a white Burgundy) to sip along with my meal.

After dinner, I walked back to my room, turned on the fireplace (which automatically turns off after 20 minutes) and disappeared into the white cloud of a king bed, surrounded by pillows.

Day 2 

The blackout curtains make the room tomb-like, so I’m glad I set an alarm, or I may have slept a lot longer. I raised the curtains to sunlight illuminating the stunning view of the valley, a slight mist hovering above the ground.

Morning

What better way to start the day than a return to the pool and sauna? There is nothing better.

Breakfast is included in the nightly rate. The dining room is alight with morning sun as you make your choice of sweet and savory dishes - eggs, pancakes, fruit, the works. If you do not want a sit-down experience, they offer a small buffet of snacks, teas, coffee and fresh juices in the living room.

How to spend the day 

Hotel Yellowstone is a short drive near Grand Teton National Park, and the drive is gloriously beautiful – it’s difficult to keep your eyes on the road. I pulled up to the gate less than an hour after getting in my car – and I went the long way through town.

I’d messaged the hotel’s team (an increasingly common hotel feature that is not 100% reliable), and they suggested the Taggart Lake - Beaver Creek Loop. I barely made it 15 minutes before I noticed that a portion of the trail was closed so it’d be an up-and-back route. Note to self: check conditions before committing to a location. 

The Jenny Lake Loop is one of the more popular trails, so I knew to expect crowds hiking that route. Thankfully, though it was busy, it was early enough in the day to have some quiet reflection time here and there. The Tetons reflecting in the lake are mind-bogglingly beautiful. The photos don’t do it justice. 

After hiking around the lake (and noticing more closures), I decided to wrap up by checking out the Jenny Lake Ranger Station, the park’s first ranger station, dating back to 1930. If you’re looking for souvenirs to commemorate your Teton trip, this is the place. I ended up with two tea towels and a Christmas tree ornament.

Afternoon

I drove to Teton Village at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort to ride the Aerial Tram (operating from May to October) 4139ft to the summit of Rendezvous Mountain. The views of the Tetons and the surrounding area are breathtaking. I wandered to the Grand Teton SkyWalk for photos – a viewing platform that is not for the faint of heart or anyone even slightly afraid of heights. 

Feeling a bit peckish, I moseyed to The Handle Bar at the Four Seasons for a quick bite. Order the mustache-shaped pretzel, served warm, drizzled with seasalt and a side of beer cheese. 

Evening

After driving back to Hotel Yellowstone, I was wiped out. I returned to the pool and sauna, which only made me long for my pajamas more.

So for my last night I chose to enjoy the cozy splendor of my room and indulge in room service: a top- notch burger with fries and a glass of wine. After having the tray cleared, I settled into the snuggly bed to watch the fireplace and read my book. Nothing could have been more luxurious. 

Brekke Fletcher traveled to Jackson Hole at the invitation of Hotel Yellowstone. Lonely Planet staff members do not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.