Guide to Taormina, Italy: Sicily's glamorous holiday haven

Taormina was already a chic Sicilian resort before The White Lotus. Since making its mass-market, on-screen debut in the second season of the hit HBO show, the hilltop town on the east coast of the Mediterranean’s largest island has risen in prominence. Travelers flock to Sicily’s most glamorous holiday haven each summer for a taste of la dolce vita. The Pearl of the Ionian Sea has historic sights, scenic viewpoints, cafés to linger over cappuccinos or granita and brioche, shopping along Corso Umberto I and beautiful beaches. There's even a cable car that connects the city center and Taormina Mare. Given its picturesque appeal, history and vibrant atmosphere, it’s no surprise tourism is booming. 

Here’s how to plan the perfect first trip to Taormina.

When should I go to Taormina?

Taormina is a jetset darling that peaks in the summer. Well-dressed (and generally well-behaved) international travelers pack its cobbled streets in search of designer bags, souvenir T-shirts and gelato. The sun-dappled beaches of Taormina Mare beckon. For all its unmistakable charm, it’s also hot and busy. Yes, that means you’re bound to rub elbows (quite literally) at the lively cafés, while walking on Corso Umberto I and at the crowded beaches, but it’s not so overrun with tourists that it takes away from the enjoyment of experiencing Taormina at its most lively.  

Travelers who prefer to skip the scorching temps and tourist onslaught might prefer visiting in the spring or fall. Besides more pleasant weather and fewer crowds, the shoulder seasons are even better for wallet-friendly rates and hotel availability. FYI, everything closes for the winter. 

How much time should I spend in Taormina?

Taormina is a requisite stop on a well-crafted Sicily itinerary. Give yourself three full days to shop, relax on the beach and tour the notable landmarks. (Even better, book a guided tour to learn about the city’s rich history.) Having 72 hours will allow you to explore at a more leisurely pace. After all, so much of the joy of a Sicilian vacation is in the slow moments – getting lost in thought while looking at a faded facade, watching the sunset while sipping a glass of Etna Bianco. Having a bit more time also allows you to do a day trip to Mt Etna or Catania. 

Is it easy to get in and around Taormina?

Catania, the second largest city after Palermo, and home to one of the two international airports, is your best bet to fly into. Delta recently launched nonstop seasonal flights from John F. Kennedy International Airport (JFK) to Vincenzo Bellini Catania Airport (CTA). For most other routes coming from the United States, you’ll still need to do a stopover at one of the big European hubs, like Amsterdam, Paris, Milan or Rome.

The least expensive way to reach Taormina from Catania airport is by bus. Etna Trasporti operates a direct service. The journey takes about 90 minutes and requires a transfer at Catania Centrale. The fastest and most convenient method of transport is a taxi, which takes about 45 minutes and costs €90 (US$105). The vast majority of hotels will coordinate transfers. 

You don’t need or want a car in Taormina. Parking is impossible. Besides, you can access all the key sights in and around the city center on foot. There are stairs into the hillsides as well as the cable car that runs between Taormina and Taormina Mare. 

Top things to do in Taormina

Go shopping along Corso Umberto I 

The main pedestrian street in Taormina, Corso Umberto I is lined with high-end designers – Dolce & Gabbana, Tom Ford, Dior – souvenir shops selling everything from lemon-scented soap to embroidered hand towels, and European high-street fashion. (Manebi, a beachy brand that’s designed in Italy and handcrafted in Spain, is my personal favorite.) 

Ride the Taormina Cable Car

More than just an efficient means of transport to reach the beach, the scenic cable car connects Taormina with Taormina Mare down below. The ride takes about five minutes, provides sweeping panoramas and costs €6 (US$7) for a one-way ticket or €10 (US$11.70) for a round trip. Little kids (under a meter tall) ride for free. 

Walk to Isola Bella

Often described by locals and visitors as one of the most beautiful places in Sicily, Isola Bella is a nature reserve a short walk from Mazarro Bay. Its beach is accessible via stairs from the main road or by cable car, and then you walk across a narrow sandbar. It's free to access. If you’d like to enter the Regional Naturalistic Museum of Isola Bella, it costs €4 (about US$4.70) and you need to wear closed-toe shoes. 

Hit Lido Mazzarò  

The pebbled shores of Lido Mazzarò attract travelers looking to catch some rays, cool off in the azure water and admire the dramatic scenery. Chairs and umbrellas are available to rent. There’s a public section, if you’d rather unroll a towel and pitch an umbrella for free. You can also embark on boat tours directly from the bay. 

Visit Teatro Antico di Taormina

You can’t visit Taormina and skip its most impressive (and flocked-to) sight: Teatro Antico di Taormina. Constructed in the 3rd century BC, the theater remains an enduring example of ancient Greek engineering and attracts nearly 245,000 visitors annually. Most people visit in the summer months, when tourism peaks and the horseshoe-shaped theater puts on concerts and festivals. Pro tip: Strike out early to beat the heat and crowds (unless, of course, you have tickets to an event).  

Eat granita and brioche

Granita and brioche are a classic Sicilian breakfast combination. You’ll find it on most café menus. Perhaps the most famous (and certainly most photogenic) spot to start the day off with the legendary sweet treat duo is the tile-adorned Bam Bar. 

Stroll around Villa Comunale di Taormina

Villa Comunale di Taormina was originally the private garden of Lady Florence Trevelyan, an English noblewoman. Now it's one of the most beautiful public parks in Sicily and offers landscaped gardens, punctuated by plant species from around the world and brick pavilions. While there’s no shortage of photo ops in Taormina, you’d be remiss not to take a break from strolling to soak in the vistas of the city skyline to sea below (and, OK, pose for pictures). 

Soak in the views from Piazza IX Aprile

Taromina’s photogenic main square, Piazza IX Aprile, is located along Corso Umberto I and framed by historic churches and intricate facades. It overlooks the blue waters of the Ionian Sea and Mt Etna in the distance. During the day, the square is a prime spot for snapping frame-worthy photos. In the evening, it buzzes with travelers taking post-dinner walks to grab gelato or a digestif.

My favorite thing to do in Taormina

Villa Comunale di Taormina is one of the loveliest places to go for a walk in town. It never feels too crowded. The towering trees give it cover from the baking sun in the summer months. There’s a great playground (a priority for me as I travel with two young children in tow), benches to sit on and a little snack kiosk to grab an espresso or a cold drink. 

How much money do I need for Taormina?

Taormina is the most expensive destination in Sicily. This isn’t to say you can’t visit on a budget – only that pinching pennies becomes a bit more challenging than in other places. You can still find affordable food and drinks (especially local Sicilian wine, which is of superb quality and well-priced). It’s the accommodations that give most first-time visitors the biggest sticker shock. It might be worth considering searching some of the neighboring towns, such as Naxos, for better deals. But then you’ll need to decide if it’s worth it to stay in Taormina, or save a few bucks to spend on a fine-dining meal or souvenir monogrammed napkins and lemon soap. 

• Hotel room: €300 (US$350) 

• Airbnb (private room): €100 (US$117)

• Airbnb (entire home): €200 (US$234) 

• Espresso: €1 (US$1.17) 

• Beer: €2 (US$2.34) 

• Water: €1 (US$1.27) 

• Glass of wine: €7 (US$8.18) 

• Granita and brioche: €6 (US$7) 

• Gelato: €2 (US$2.34) 

• Lunch: €15 (US$150) 

• Pizza: €10 (US$11.70) 

• Arancini:€3 (US$3.50)

• Simple dinner: €20 (US$24) 

• Fancy dinner: €100 (US$117) 

• Cable car: €6 (US$7) for a one-way ticket, €10 (US$11.70) for a round trip

What should I pack for Taormina?

Wandering the streets, you’ll see lots of linen, sun hats and comfortable walking shoes. In the evenings, people do dress up a bit more than in other places in Sicily (you sort of get the vibe everyone desperately wants to snap that perfect photo to post on Instagram and frame back home), but it’s certainly not a requisite. Planning on hitting the beach at Mazzaro Bay? Be sure to pack a swimsuit and sunscreen. If you forget something, no need to stress. Taormina has plenty of shops to pick up beauty products, clothing, beach gear and leather sandals – you just might end up paying a premium. 

Where should I stay in Taormina?

The city center is home to some of the most luxurious and expensive hotels in Sicily. Grand Hotel Timeo, A Belmond Hotel, Taormina (Taormina’s first hotel) and San Domenico Palace, Taormina, A Four Seasons Hotel (where the characters stayed in The White Lotus) are two of the most prestigious five-star grand dames. The prices are, as you’d imagine, prohibitively expensive during peak season. For vacationers who still want to be in the thick of the tourist action, there are some slightly more wallet-friendly alternatives, such as the four-star Hotel Villa Paradiso. 

Up in the hills, approximately a 20-minute walk from the city center, are some charming boutique stays with price tags that won’t drain your entire travel budget. Hotel Villa Ducale with views of Mt Etna, and Villa Angela are top-rated options. 

Down in beachy Taormina Mare, the all-suite Mazzarò Sea Palace and Hotel Villa Sant'Andrea, A Belmond Hotel, Taormina Mare are the only two hotels with direct access to Mazzarò Bay. The desirable setting and upscale ambiance come with a cost. By contrast, rates at the three-star Jonic Hotel Mazzaro across the street start at €150 (US$176).