Copy My Trip: a week of island-hopping around the Azores

Lonely Planet editor AnneMarie McCarthy spent a jam-packed week in the Azores, exploring four islands in seven days.

As the lucky destination editor in charge of Lonely Planet’s Portugal coverage, I can tell you one thing with absolute certainty: you all are fascinated by the Azores. Week after week, I see that first-time visitors to these green islands are reading up about the spots that your well-traveled friends are already raving about.

When I got an invite from Visit Azores, I quickly packed my rain jacket and sunscreen to check out the archipelago myself. With a one-week itinerary, I visited São Miguel, Pico, Faial and Terceira, island-hopping by plane but also by ferry.

What was the handiest item you packed?

My rain jacket. Although the sun did shine a lot, showers blew through with little warning. The weather forecast on the islands is often not reliable – and when you’re spending so much time outside on impossibly scenic hikes, you will want to be prepared for all eventualities. A lightweight, waterproof jacket will mean you can hike for hours without fear.

Yet no matter how well prepared you are, never hike off-trail, since you run the risk of damaging delicate endemic vegetation. What’s more, wild camping is not allowed anywhere on the islands. You’ll always be close to somewhere official to stay.

Where did you stay? What was the vibe?

With a lot of island-hopping came a lot of lovely hotels, all of which brought something different. In São Miguel, the decor at the nature-themed Senhora da Rosa was inspired by the local landscape. The on-site restaurant, Magma, provided a great last meal of my trip.

At Pico’s Aldeia da Fonte, the rooms are made of volcanic rock – they reminded me of an American log cabin (at least like the ones I’ve seen on television). The sea walk on the property is complete with a terrace to watch the waves and a ladder to get down to the cove to swim. It’s a great place to relax after a day climbing Mt Pico.

Faial’s Hotel do Canal is right on the pier, making it perfect for exploring the bright murals left by sailors over the centuries. And it’s within view of the famous Peter Café Sport, where the lemon gin and tonic is never a bad idea.

Quinta da Nasce Água in Terceira is just a 10-minute walk from the historic center of Angra do Heroismo but feels like it’s in the countryside. The staff was incredibly welcoming here and, in fact, everywhere I stayed.

What was your most touristy activity?

The most touristy thing that I did among the Azores top activities was also my favorite: a dolphin- and whale-watching tour that set out from Ponta Delgada in São Miguel. I’ve never had much luck with wildlife spotting, but since the Azores is one of the best places in the world for whale watching, I was optimistic.

Between April and early July is an optimal time to set off, since the cetaceans are on their annual migration and there are more species in the surrounding water. During nearly three hours at sea, we saw dolphins, orcas, sperm whales and pilot whales. The whales kept their distance, but the dolphins got up close, chasing one another in front of the boat.

A limited number of companies in the Azores have a license for this activity, and they all operate under strict rules of engagement, such as never approaching the animals from the front and keeping a reasonable distance (the more vessels in the area, the further away they all have to be). None of this affects your chances of seeing them, however. I went with Futurismo, which offers two or three trips a day. The team is so confident you will have a successful sighting that if you happen to be unlucky, you can take a subsequent tour for free.

What was the best thing you ate?

I enjoyed incredible food all week, ranging from the very traditional to the inventive. This being Portugal, you can expect a meat-heavy menu – although I did have the best mushroom risotto of my life at Sensi Nature and Spa hotel. It’s essential to try a cozido das furnas, an array of meats arranged in a clay pot that gets buried, then cooked (and flavored) by the geothermal heat of volcanic activity. I watched the pots be collected from Furnas Lake before tucking into mine at nearby institution Tony’s.

Other memorable meals were at Pico’s famous Cella Bar, where on a windy day I had wine, tapas and a view of Faial. Don’t leave Terceira without trying the island’s famous Dona Amélia, a sticky spice cake. (In fact, each island has its own signature pastry.) I also recommend Quinta do Martelo’s alcatra: a comforting stew cooked in a clay pot with wine, simmering long and slow until the meat practically melts.

Did I mention that the food in the Azores is good?

What’s your favorite photo from the trip and where was it taken?

This shot was taken at the bottom of a dormant volcano, Algar do Carvão. There are only three places in the world you can go inside one of these: Indonesia, Iceland and here, in the center of Terceira. While you have to pass through a short tunnel to reach the interior, being inside doesn’t feel claustrophobic, as you can look up to the sky above.

You can also explore further into the caves to take in the cathedral-like spaces, all formed from volcanic stone. For something truly unique, concerts take place here occasionally.

What's your best tip for someone who wants to plan the same trip?

Concentrate on fewer islands or come for longer than a week! Since the Azores are in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, the temptation to island-hop is strong, particularly in the summer, when travelers are less likely to be affected by poor weather and plane or ferry cancellations. I recommend sticking with two islands that suit your travel style for each week you’re in the Azores. You could stretch this to three islands, depending on the size and proximity of the islands you fancy. Pico is very small, for example, and is only an hour from Faial by ferry, making for a faster and more convenient trip than by plane.

The Azores are all about the outdoors and good food – and every island has both in abundance. Almost everywhere you stay will be peaceful. Which is why you’ll get the most out of your visit here when you have time to relax and soak it all in.

AnneMarie McCarthy visited the Azores at the invitation of Visit Azores. Lonely Planet does not accept freebies for positive coverage.