The Deserts
There’s something undeniably artistic in the way the landscape unfolds in the California desert. Weathered volcanic peaks stand sentinel over singing sand dunes and mountains shimmering in hues from mustard yellow to vibrant pink. Hot mineral water spurts from the earth’s belly to feed palm oases and soothe aching muscles in stylish spas. Tiny wildflowers push up from the hard-baked soil to celebrate springtime.
The riches of the desert soil have lured prospectors and miners, while its beauty and spirituality have tugged at the hearts of artists, visionaries and wanderers. Eccentrics, misfits and the military are drawn by its vastness and solitude. Hipsters and celebs come for the climate and retro flair, especially in unofficial desert capital, Palm Springs. Through it all threads iconic Route 66, lined with moodily rusting roadside relics. No matter what your trail, the desert will creep into your consciousness and never fully leave.
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Top attractions
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout The Deserts.
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Sunnylands
Palm Springs has long been famous a celebrity playground, but few destinations in the valley better exemplify that pedigree than Sunnylands, the retreat of publishing giant, diplomat, and philanthropist Walter Annenberg and his wife Leonore. The not-so-little pink roofed house is part of a sprawling 200 acre estate that includes lush guest quarters, cottages, entertaining spaces, and even a golf course. Like many of the mid-century rich and famous, the Annenbergs chose greater Palm Springs for their modernist winter home in Rancho Mirage. Nicknamed the "Camp David of the West", the Annenbergs entertained eight US presidents, royalty, heads of state, and Hollywood celebrities, including the Shah of Iran, the Queen of England, Bing Crosby, Truman Capote, and Barack Obama. Frank Sinatra married Barbara Marx at Sunnylands; the Reagans spent ever New Years here for nearly two decades. The interior of Sunnylands retains its mid-century modern glam, and some significant artworks © Jim Steinfeldt/Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images The estate's art-filled main home, a 1966 mid-century-modern masterpiece by A Quincy Jones, is accessible only by 90-minute guided tour; book online far in advance. No reservations are required for the exhibits and documentary on view at the architecturally stunning visitor center or to stroll the magnificent, sustainably designed gardens, inspired by impressionist paintings. The gardeners didn't have to go far to find their references, either. While the Annenbergs were alive (Walter passed in 2002, Leonore in 2009), they kept their extensive collection of works by Picasso, Van Gogh, Andrew Wyeth, and Monet here. Those paintings were largely donated the Metropolitan Museum of Art, however, in the early aughts. Tickets for the Historic House Tour ($48, no children under 10) and Birding on the Estate ($38) are released at 9am on the 15th of the preceding month and sell out quickly. Tickets for the 45-minute Open-Air Experience, a shuttle tour of the grounds and golf course that runs from September to April ($21), are sold first-come, first-served at the visitor center (credit cards only). Neither the Birding nor the Open-Air tour give access to the house.
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Zabriskie Point
Not many national park features can say they were celebrated in a 1969 film of the same name, but Zabriskie Point claims that honor thanks to director Michelangelo Antonio. It's easy to see why the spectacular views in this corner of Death Valley have inspired creatives from Antonio to the cinematographers behind 1960's Spartacus to U2's Joshua Tree album. A flashpoint for 1970s counterculture, even philosopher Michel Foucault rhapsodized about experiencing Zabriskie firsthand. Here you can see the rumpled badlands unfurl beneath the Panamint Mountains, hinting at when Death Valley wasn't known for its dry heat but was shaped by the flow of ancient creeks and lakes, and later erosion. Keep your eyes pealed for Manly Beacon (named for one of the original 49'ers who came to Death Valley searching for gold), the wedge-shaped outcropping below Zabriskie point that's set off beautifully at sunrise or sunset, when the walls of the canyons here gleam as if from within. In addition to taking in Death Valley from above at Zabriskie, you can also use it as a launching point for hikes. You can reach Zabriskie point from a short hike from the parking lot, or from further afield on the Golden Canyon, Gower Gulch, and Badlands Loop trails, which can be taken individually or combined into an eight mile round trip trek. There is parking suitable for cars and RVs at Zabriskie point, along with vault toilets and interpretive exhibits. While the toilet facilities and parking lot are accessible for visitors with disabilities, the grade of the short path to the overlook itself is somewhat steep, and may be a challenge for some of those using mobility aids.
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Dante's View
Dante's View is an overlook that sits perched at 5475ft atop the Black Mountains, affording stunning panoramic views of the entire southern Death Valley basin. On very clear days, you can simultaneously see the highest (Mt Whitney) and lowest (Badwater) points in the contiguous USA. As the highest point in Death Valley National Park, you'll also get a slight respite from the valley's famous heat, if you're lucky. If it looks a little familiar, that might be because it was used for a brief establishing shot in Star Wars: A New Hope when the characters first approach Mos Eisley. But Dante's View has an older pop culture connection – the overlook got its name from visiting members of the Pacific Coast Borax Company, who thought it evoked the Italian poet's vision of nine circles of hell in The Divine Comedy. Indeed, the Borax industrialists hoped the vivid moniker would help establish Dante's View as the best view in the area for visiting tourists. While the vantage point from the parking lot is indeed splendid, you can also hike half along Dantes Ridge to the top of Mount Perry for even more unobstructed views and different angles. It's an eight mile trek, however, that can involve strenuous bolder scrambles and should be completed before 10am in the summer months, as there's no shade.
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Keys View
High atop the Little San Bernardino Mountains, Keys View offers panoramic views of the whole Coachella Valley spread out like a picnic blanket. On clear days you can see the Salton Sea, the San Andreas Fault, southern California's highest peaks of Mt San Jacinto (10,834ft) and Mt San Gorgonio (11,500ft), and on rare occasions even Mexico. It's a twenty minute drive from Park Boulevard to the highest point in Joshua Tree National Park. The main lookout is wheelchair accessible. Hikers can take the .2-mile-loop trail up the ridge for another angle, too. For a longer hike, the Keys View Loop to Inspiration Peak Trail is two miles out and back and moderately challenging. Or you can try the Lost Horse Mine trailhead, which is nearly seven miles long.
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Palm Springs Art Museum
Art fans should not miss this museum and its changing exhibitions drawn from a stellar collection of international modern and contemporary painting, sculpture, photography and glass art. The permanent collection includes works by Henry Moore, Ed Ruscha, Helen Frankenthaler, Louise Bourgeois, Mark Bradford, Pablo Picasso, and many other heavy hitters. Other highlights are a wide-ranging glass art and pre-Colombian figurine collections. Free entry from 5pm to 7pm Thursdays.
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Palm Springs Aerial Tramway
This rotating cable car climbs nearly 6000ft vertically and covers five different vegetation zones, from the Sonoran desert floor to pine-scented Mt San Jacinto State Park, in 10 minutes during its 2.5-mile journey. From the mountain station (8561ft), which is 30°F to 40°F (up to 22°C) cooler than the desert floor, you can enjoy stupendous views, dine in two restaurants (ask about ride 'n' dine passes), explore more than 50 miles of trails or visit the natural-history museum. The valley station is about 3.5 miles off Hwy 111; the turnoff is about 3 miles north of downtown Palm Springs. Cable cars depart every 30 minutes and more frequently during peak times. Online tickets are available from six weeks to 24 hours in advance and highly recommended to avoid often horrendous wait times. If online tickets are sold out, there is a contingent of on-site tickets available on a first-come, first-served basis.
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Living Desert Zoo & Gardens
This amazing animal park showcases desert plants and animals alongside exhibits on regional geology and Native American culture. Highlights include a walk-through wildlife hospital and an African-themed village with a fair-trade market and storytelling grove. Camel rides, giraffe feeding, a spin on the endangered species carousel, and a hop-on, hop-off shuttle cost extra. It’s educational, fun and worth the 15-mile drive down-valley. Allow for a visit of two to three hours.
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Noah Purifoy Desert Art Museum
The 'Junk Dada' sculptures and installations of African American artist Noah Purifoy (1917–2004) are collected by the world's finest museums, but some of his coolest works can be seen for free at his former outdoor desert studio north of Joshua Tree. Toilets, tires, monitors, bicycles and beds are among the eclectic castoffs he turned variously into political statements, social criticism or just plain nonsense. Pick up a pamphlet for a self-guided tour.
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Wonderland of Rocks
This striking rock labyrinth extends roughly from Indian Cove in the north to Park Blvd in the south and is predictably a popular rock climbers' haunt. For a quick impression, try the 0.5-mile Indian Cove Trail or the 1-mile Barker Dam Trail. The 7-mile Willow Hole Trail and the 8-mile Boy Scout Trail present more challenging treks and should not be attempted in hot weather.