The Deserts
There’s something undeniably artistic in the way the landscape unfolds in the California desert. Weathered volcanic peaks stand sentinel over singing sand dunes and mountains shimmering in hues from mustard yellow to vibrant pink. Hot mineral water spurts from the earth’s belly to feed palm oases and soothe aching muscles in stylish spas. Tiny wildflowers push up from the hard-baked soil to celebrate springtime.
The riches of the desert soil have lured prospectors and miners, while its beauty and spirituality have tugged at the hearts of artists, visionaries and wanderers. Eccentrics, misfits and the military are drawn by its vastness and solitude. Hipsters and celebs come for the climate and retro flair, especially in unofficial desert capital, Palm Springs. Through it all threads iconic Route 66, lined with moodily rusting roadside relics. No matter what your trail, the desert will creep into your consciousness and never fully leave.
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Top attractions
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout The Deserts.
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Death Valley National Park
The very name evokes all that is harsh, hot and hellish – a punishing, barren and lifeless place of Old Testament severity. Yet closer inspection reveals that in Death Valley nature is indeed putting on a lively show: sensuous sand dunes, water-sculpted canyons, rocks moving across the desert floor, extinct volcanic craters, palm-shaded oases, stark mountains rising to 11,000ft and plenty of endemic wildlife. This is a land of superlatives, holding the US records for hottest temperature (134°F/57°C), lowest point (Badwater, 282ft below sea level) and largest national park outside Alaska (more than 5300 sq miles). Does anyone live in Death Valley? The Timbisha Shoshone tribespeople have lived in the Panamint Range for centuries, visiting the valley every winter to gather acorns, hunt waterfowl, catch pupfish in marshes and cultivate small areas of corn, squash and beans. After the federal government created Death Valley National Monument in 1933, the tribe was forced to move several times and was eventually restricted to a 40-acre village site near Furnace Creek, where the Timbisha Shoshone still live. In 2000 President Clinton signed an act transferring 7500 acres of land back to the Timbisha Shoshone tribe, creating the first Native American reservation inside a US national park. Today, a few dozen Timbisha live in the Indian Village near Furnace Creek. Pop by to sample the filling and tasty Timbisha Taco ($10 to $12), made with fry bread in place of a tortilla. Highlights of Death Valley Zabriskie Point Early morning is the best time to visit Zabriskie Point for spectacular views across ethereally glowing, golden badlands eroded into waves, pleats and gullies. The spot was named for a manager of the Pacific Coast Borax Company and also inspired the title of Michelangelo Antonio's 1970s movie. The cover of U2's Joshua Tree album was also shot here. Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes The most accessible dunes in Death Valley are a gracefully curving sea of sand rising up to 100ft close to the highway just east of Stovepipe Wells Village. They are at their most photogenic at sunrise or sunset when bathed in soft light and accented by long, deep shadows. Keep an eye out for animal tracks. Full-moon nights are especially magical. With luck and good hearing, you can witness the Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes emit a low humming sound when standing at the top. Badwater Basin The lowest point in North America (282ft below sea level) is an eerily beautiful landscape of crinkly salt flats. A boardwalk takes you out over a constantly evaporating bed of salty, mineralized water that’s otherworldly in its beauty. It's about 17 miles south of Furnace Creek. Dante's View Negotiate a vertiginous mountain road to simultaneously see the lowest point and highest points in the continental US. At 5475ft, the view of the entire southern Death Valley basin from the top of the Black Mountains is absolutely brilliant, especially at sunrise or sunset. On very clear days, you can simultaneously see the highest (Mt Whitney) and lowest (Badwater) points in the contiguous USA. Allow about 1½ hours for the 26-mile round-trip drive from the turnoff at Hwy 190, east of Furnace Creek. Amargosa Opera House The Timbisha aren't the only ones who have called Death Valley home. New York dancer Marta Beckett fell in love with a 1920s colonnaded adobe building when her car broke down in Death Valley Junction in 1967. Until her death at age 92 in 2017, she entertained the curious with dance, music and mime shows at the Amargosa Opera House. Visiting performers, inspired by Marta, continue to keep her legacy alive in fall and winter. A simple roadside memorial stone honors the accomplishments of this intrepid woman. Artists Drive About 10 miles south of Furnace Creek is the turn-off for Artists Drive, which offers 'wow' moments around every turn. About 5 miles in, you'll pass the main stop called Artists Palette, where oxidized metals tinge the mountains into hues from rose to green and purple; view them at their luminous best right before sunset. The road is well paved but windy with the occasional fun rollercoaster-style dip, and is nine miles one way. Racetrack Playa Beyond the northern end of Hwy 190, it's slow going for 27 miles on a tire-shredding dirt road (high-clearance and 4WD usually required) to the lonesome Racetrack Playa. Here, hundreds of sizeable rocks have etched tracks into the dry lake bed. In 2014, a group of researchers finally lifted the mystery when they observed the stones being pushed by winds across thin sheets of ice that had formed overnight. Read all about it at www.racetrackplaya.org. Ryholite Rhyolite epitomizes the hurly-burly, boom-and-bust story of Western gold-rush mining towns. After the first nugget was discovered in 1904, the population soared to 8000 by 1908, only to plummet a couple of years later when the mines began petering out. The remaining ruins, including a school, store, bank and railway station, reflect the high standard of living created for such a short period. A much photographed curiosity is a house made of thousands of beer bottles. Death Valley Weather Death Valley is sunny, dry and clear year-round, but don't assume it's always hot: temperatures fluctuate hugely, from 38°F/3°C in December to 116°F/43°C in July. Dress accordingly. Peak visiting seasons are winter and the springtime wildflower bloom. In summer, a car with reliable air-con is essential and outdoor explorations in the valley should be limited to the early morning and late afternoon. Escape the heat by heading to the mountains. Winter rains are a possibility and flash flood damage or snow in the mountains regularly leads to road closures. Hiking The best time for hiking is November to March. Stay off the trail in summer, except on higher-elevation mountain trails, which are usually snowed in during winter. Constructed paths are rare in Death Valley and all but the easiest hikes may require some scrambling or bouldering. An adequate water supply is essential; one gallon per day per person in summer and half a gallon in winter are recommended. Golden Canyon Whether a short stroll or strenuous trek – don't miss a spin around this winding wonderland of golden canyons between Badwater Rd and Zabriskie Point. The most popular route is a 3-mile in-and-back trek from the main trailhead off Badwater Rd to the oxidized iron cliffs of Red Cathedral. Combining it with the Gower Gulch Loop adds another mile. Alternatively, kick off at Zabriskie Point for the 2.7-mile Badlands Loop. Mosaic Canyon Trail West of Stovepipe Wells Village, a 2.3-mile gravel road deadends at the mouth of Mosaic Canyon, from where a 4-mile in-and-out trail meanders past polished marble walls carved from 750 million-year-old rocks. About 0.25 miles past the trailhead, the canyon narrows dramatically; about 1.3 miles in, a pile of boulders blocks the passage but it's possible to squeeze by on the left and continue the trek. Telescope Peak The park’s highest summit is Telescope Peak (11,049ft), with views that plummet to the desert floor, which is as far below as two Grand Canyons deep! The 14-mile round-trip trail clocks a 3000ft elevation gain from its trailhead at the Mahogany Flat campground. Summiting in winter requires an ice-axe, crampons and winter-hiking experience. By June, the trail is usually free of snow. Wildrose Peak This 8.4-mile round-trip hike with a sweat-inducing 2200ft elevation gain begins near the charcoal kilns off Wildrose Canyon Rd and threads past piñon pines and juniper to a lofty 9064ft. Grand views of the Panamint Valley, Badwater Basin and all of Death Valley National Park starting about halfway. It's best in spring or fall.The final mile below the summit is the toughest stretch. Visiting Death Valley National Park Park entry permits ($30 per vehicle) are valid for seven days and available from self-service pay stations along the park's access roads and at the visitor center. Cell towers provide service at Furnace Creek and Stovepipe Wells Village but there's little to no coverage elsewhere in the park. The park's main roads (Hwys 178 and 190) are paved and in great shape, but if your travel plans include dirt roads, a high-clearance vehicle and off-road tires are highly recommended and essential on many routes. 4WD is often necessary after rains. Always check with the visitor center for current road conditions, especially before heading to remote areas. Furnace Creek Furnace Creek is Death Valley’s commercial hub, home to the national park visitor center, a gas station, ATM, post office and lodging. There's also a Mission–style 'town square' with a general store, restaurant, saloon and ice cream and coffee parlor. Facilities at Stovepipe Wells Village and Panamint Springs also include gas, food and lodging. Gas is available 24/7 at Furnace Creek and Stovepipe Wells Village and from 7am to 9:30pm in Panamint Springs. Prices are much higher than outside the park. Beatty Around 40 miles north of Furnace Creek, the historic mining town of Beatty (population 1000) across the Nevada border has certainly seen better days but makes a less-expensive launchpad for visiting Death Valley. It also has an ATM, gas station and a general store. Shoshone On the southern stoop of Death Valley, about 60 miles from Furnace Creek, blink-and-you-miss-it Shoshone stakes its existence on being an early-20th-century railroad stop. The railroad disappeared in 1941, but the village still caters to travelers with a gas station, general store, restaurant, lodging and small tourist office. Tecopa The old mining town of Tecopa was named after a peacemaking Paiute chief. Its desolate looks belie an artistic undercurrent and an unexpected number of fun spots. Soak in hot natural mineral springs, explore a hidden date-palm oasis, fuel up at excellent restaurants and get toasted at not one, but two craft breweries. It's about 70 miles from here to Furnace Creek. Death Valley hotels In-park lodging options that aren't a tent are limited, pricey and often fully booked in springtime. Alternative bases are the gateway towns of Beatty (40 miles from Furnace Creek), Lone Pine (40 miles), Death Valley Junction (30 miles), Shoshone (60 miles) and Tecopa (70 miles). Options a bit further afield include Ridgecrest (120 miles) and Las Vegas (140 miles). That said, there are two especially well-regarded options, one in the park proper and the other in Death Valley Junction. The Oasis at Death Valley The Oasis at Death Valley is so well located you can roll out of bed, pull back the curtains and count the colors of the desert. This 1927 Spanish Mission–style hotel is brimming with all the expected 21st-century comforts. After a day of sweaty touring, languid valley views await as you relax by the spring-fed swimming pool with a spa and pool bar, in the warmly furnished lounge or in the library. A class act throughout. The Amargosa Hotel Meanwhile, adjacent to the Amargosa Opera House is the Amargosa Hotel. With no TV or wi-fi, sunsets and starry skies are the only nighttime entertainment provided by the 16-room lodge built in 1925 by the Pacific Coast Borax Company. Today, the vintage gem delivers buckets of kookiness thanks to eccentric staff, muraled rooms and a resident ghost or two. New mattresses have raised comfort levels, and all guests are welcome to use the communal kitchenette – bring supplies as there is no store. The attached farm-to-table cafe serves scrumptious breakfasts, strong coffee and healthy sandwiches but has limited hours. Camping near Death Valley The National Park Service operates nine campgrounds, including four tucked into the Panamint Mountains. Only Furnace Creek accepts reservations and only from mid-October to mid-April. All other campgrounds are first-come, first-served. At peak times, such as weekends during the spring wildflower bloom, campsites fill by midmorning. On those days, vast Sunset campground is your best bet for snagging a last-minute spot, plus there's always the option of free backcountry camping. Backcountry camping is allowed along dirt roads at least 1 mile away from paved roads and developed and day-use areas, and 100yd from any water source, and no fires are allowed. Park your car next to the roadway and pitch your tent on a previously used campsite to minimize your impact. For a list of areas that are off-limits to backcountry camping, as well as additional regulations, check the official National Parks Service website or stop by the visitor center where you can also pick up a free voluntary permit. Private campgrounds catering mostly to RVers can be found in Furnace Creek, Stovepipe Wells Village and Panamint Springs. Stovepipe Wells Village offers public showers ($5, including swimming-pool access). Pay at reception. Mesquite Springs Campground and Thorndike Campground are two other popular options.
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Sunnylands
Palm Springs has long been famous a celebrity playground, but few destinations in the valley better exemplify that pedigree than Sunnylands, the retreat of publishing giant, diplomat, and philanthropist Walter Annenberg and his wife Leonore. The not-so-little pink roofed house is part of a sprawling 200 acre estate that includes lush guest quarters, cottages, entertaining spaces, and even a golf course. Like many of the mid-century rich and famous, the Annenbergs chose greater Palm Springs for their modernist winter home in Rancho Mirage. Nicknamed the "Camp David of the West", the Annenbergs entertained eight US presidents, royalty, heads of state, and Hollywood celebrities, including the Shah of Iran, the Queen of England, Bing Crosby, Truman Capote, and Barack Obama. Frank Sinatra married Barbara Marx at Sunnylands; the Reagans spent ever New Years here for nearly two decades. The estate's art-filled main home, a 1966 mid-century-modern masterpiece by A Quincy Jones, is accessible only by 90-minute guided tour; book online far in advance. No reservations are required for the exhibits and documentary on view at the architecturally stunning visitor center or to stroll the magnificent, sustainably designed gardens, inspired by impressionist paintings. The gardeners didn't have to go far to find their references, either. While the Annenbergs were alive (Walter passed in 2002, Leonore in 2009), they kept their extensive collection of works by Picasso, Van Gogh, Andrew Wyeth, and Monet here. Those paintings were largely donated the Metropolitan Museum of Art, however, in the early aughts. Tickets for the Historic House Tour ($48, no children under 10) and Birding on the Estate ($38) are released at 9am on the 15th of the preceding month and sell out quickly. Tickets for the 45-minute Open-Air Experience, a shuttle tour of the grounds and golf course that runs from September to April ($21), are sold first-come, first-served at the visitor center (credit cards only). Neither the Birding nor the Open-Air tour give access to the house.
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Zabriskie Point
Not many national park features can say they were celebrated in a 1969 film of the same name, but Zabriskie Point claims that honor thanks to director Michelangelo Antonio. It's easy to see why the spectacular views in this corner of Death Valley have inspired creatives from Antonio to the cinematographers behind 1960's Spartacus to U2's Joshua Tree album. A flashpoint for 1970s counterculture, even philosopher Michel Foucault rhapsodized about experiencing Zabriskie firsthand. Here you can see the rumpled badlands unfurl beneath the Panamint Mountains, hinting at when Death Valley wasn't known for its dry heat but was shaped by the flow of ancient creeks and lakes, and later erosion. Keep your eyes pealed for Manly Beacon (named for one of the original 49'ers who came to Death Valley searching for gold), the wedge-shaped outcropping below Zabriskie point that's set off beautifully at sunrise or sunset, when the walls of the canyons here gleam as if from within. In addition to taking in Death Valley from above at Zabriskie, you can also use it as a launching point for hikes. You can reach Zabriskie point from a short hike from the parking lot, or from further afield on the Golden Canyon, Gower Gulch, and Badlands Loop trails, which can be taken individually or combined into an eight mile round trip trek. There is parking suitable for cars and RVs at Zabriskie point, along with vault toilets and interpretive exhibits. While the toilet facilities and parking lot are accessible for visitors with disabilities, the grade of the short path to the overlook itself is somewhat steep, and may be a challenge for some of those using mobility aids.
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Dante's View
Dante's View is an overlook that sits perched at 5475ft atop the Black Mountains, affording stunning panoramic views of the entire southern Death Valley basin. On very clear days, you can simultaneously see the highest (Mt Whitney) and lowest (Badwater) points in the contiguous USA. As the highest point in Death Valley National Park, you'll also get a slight respite from the valley's famous heat, if you're lucky. If it looks a little familiar, that might be because it was used for a brief establishing shot in Star Wars: A New Hope when the characters first approach Mos Eisley. But Dante's View has an older pop culture connection – the overlook got its name from visiting members of the Pacific Coast Borax Company, who thought it evoked the Italian poet's vision of nine circles of hell in The Divine Comedy. Indeed, the Borax industrialists hoped the vivid moniker would help establish Dante's View as the best view in the area for visiting tourists. While the vantage point from the parking lot is indeed splendid, you can also hike half along Dantes Ridge to the top of Mount Perry for even more unobstructed views and different angles. It's an eight mile trek, however, that can involve strenuous bolder scrambles and should be completed before 10am in the summer months, as there's no shade.
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Keys View
High atop the Little San Bernardino Mountains, Keys View offers panoramic views of the whole Coachella Valley spread out like a picnic blanket. On clear days you can see the Salton Sea, the San Andreas Fault, southern California's highest peaks of Mt San Jacinto (10,834ft) and Mt San Gorgonio (11,500ft), and on rare occasions even Mexico. It's a twenty minute drive from Park Boulevard to the highest point in Joshua Tree National Park. The main lookout is wheelchair accessible. Hikers can take the .2-mile-loop trail up the ridge for another angle, too. For a longer hike, the Keys View Loop to Inspiration Peak Trail is two miles out and back and moderately challenging. Or you can try the Lost Horse Mine trailhead, which is nearly seven miles long.
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Palm Springs Art Museum
Art fans should not miss this museum and its changing exhibitions drawn from a stellar collection of international modern and contemporary painting, sculpture, photography and glass art. The permanent collection includes works by Henry Moore, Ed Ruscha, Helen Frankenthaler, Louise Bourgeois, Mark Bradford, Pablo Picasso, and many other heavy hitters. Other highlights are a wide-ranging glass art and pre-Colombian figurine collections. Free entry from 5pm to 7pm Thursdays.
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Palm Springs Aerial Tramway
This rotating cable car climbs nearly 6000ft vertically and covers five different vegetation zones, from the Sonoran desert floor to pine-scented Mt San Jacinto State Park, in 10 minutes during its 2.5-mile journey. From the mountain station (8561ft), which is 30°F to 40°F (up to 22°C) cooler than the desert floor, you can enjoy stupendous views, dine in two restaurants (ask about ride 'n' dine passes), explore more than 50 miles of trails or visit the natural-history museum.
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Living Desert Zoo & Gardens
This amazing animal park showcases desert plants and animals alongside exhibits on regional geology and Native American culture. Highlights include a walk-through wildlife hospital and an African-themed village with a fair-trade market and storytelling grove. Camel rides, giraffe feeding, a spin on the endangered species carousel, and a hop-on, hop-off shuttle cost extra. It’s educational, fun and worth the 15-mile drive down-valley. Allow for a visit of two to three hours.
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Scotty's Castle
Closed due to flood damage and not likely to reopen until at least 2020, this whimsical castle was the desert home of Walter E Scott, alias ‘Death Valley Scotty,’ a quintessential tall-tale teller who captivated people with his stories of gold. His most lucrative friendship was with Albert Johnson, a wealthy insurance magnate from Chicago, who bankrolled this elaborate desert oasis in the 1920s.