When you’ve had enough of Chernivtsi’s barmy traffic, head for the tranquillity of vul Kobylyanskoyi, a pedestrianised street running between vuls Holovna and Shevchenka. It’s certainly the city’s most attractive thoroughfare hemmed with beautiful art nouveau facades containing music schools, a couple of minimuseums, bookshops, Lviv chain cafes, pizza places and some local government offices. Retro copies of 19th-century gas lamps, freshly planted trees and lots of benches make this the ideal venue for the evening corso and proves that Ukraine can do 'pleasant' when it puts its mind to it.