This hillside tumble of crumbling stone houses, with back alleys presided over by strutting cockerels and the odd stray cow, leads down to a valley studded with the remnants of rock-cut churches. Surrounded by rolling hills, a lakeside monastery, and with the silhouette of Hasan Dağı (Mt Hasan) glowering over the horizon, the gentle-paced rhythm of life here is a refreshing glimpse of rural Cappadocia.
Known as Karballa (Gelveri) in Ottoman times, up until the population exchanges of 1924 the town was inhabited by 1000 Ottoman Greek families and 50 Turkish Muslim families. Afterwards the Greeks of Gelveri went to Nea Karvali in Greece, while Turkish families from Kozan and Kastoria in Greece moved here. The relationship between the two countries is now celebrated in an annual Turks & Greeks Friendship Festival in July.