The hilly cobbled streets that radiate out around the Ulu Cami are chock-a-block with a liquorice allsorts selection of colourful Ottoman timber-framed houses, some serving as teahouses and restaurants. Sunset is the best time to explore this area, when the shadows lengthen and families are strolling around their neighbourhood. Unlike some overly restored old-town neighbourhoods in Turkey, Afyon's heritage area combines renovation and renewal with its original grittier ambience.
Follow Tuz Pazarı Caddesi west, with the castle above you on your right, to head into the old town area and explore.
