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Nong Khai

Sitting on the banks of the Mekong, just across from Vientiane in Laos, Nong Khai (หนองคาย) has been a hit with travelers for years. Its popularity is about more than just its proximity to Vientiane and its bounty of banana pancakes, though. Seduced by its dreamy pink sunsets and sluggish pace of life, many visitors who mean to stay one night end up bedding down for many more.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Nong Khai.

Sculpture
Sala Kaew Ku
One of Thailand’s most enigmatic attractions, Sala Kaew Ku can't fail to impress. Built over 20 years by Luang Pu Boun Leua Sourirat, a mystic who died in 1996, the park features a wonderful smorgasbord of bizarre cement statues of Buddha, Shiva, Vishnu and other deities. The main shrine building is packed with hundreds of smaller sculptures of various description and provenance, photos of Luang Pu at various stages throughout his life, and his corpse under a glass dome ringed by flashing lights.
Buddhist Temple
Wat Pho Chai
Luang Po Phra Sai, a large Lan Xang–era Buddha image awash with gold, bronze and precious stones, sits at the hub of Nong Khai's holiest temple. The head of the image is pure gold, the body is bronze and the ùt·sà·nít (flame-shaped head ornament) is set with rubies. Due to the great number of miracles attributed to it, this royal temple is a mandatory stop for most visiting Thais.
Buddhist Stupa
Phra That Klang Nam
The ‘Stupa in the Middle of the River’ (sometimes called Phra That Nong Khai) is a ruined Lao-style chedi submerged in the middle of the river and can only be seen in the dry season when the water is low: the river rises and falls about 13m annually. It was gobbled up by the meandering Mekong in the middle of the 18th century and it toppled over in 1847.
Buddhist Temple
Wat Noen Phra Nao Wanaram
This forest wát on the south side of town is a respected vipassana (insight meditation) centre on pleasant, tree-shaded grounds. Most of the extremely ornate temple architecture, covered with stencil and mosaic, stands in contrast with the usual ascetic tone of forest monasteries. There are many Vietnamese graves here, and some of the statuary would fit right in at Sala Kaew Ku.
Market
Tha Sadet Market
This is the most popular destination in town. Almost everyone loves a stroll through this covered market despite it being a giant tourist trap. It offers the usual mix of clothes, electronic equipment, food and assorted bric-a-brac, most of it imported from Laos and China, but there are also a few shops selling quirky and quality stuff.
Buddhist Stupa
Phra That La Nong
This stupa, which is illuminated at night, was built in 2006 in honour of and alongside Phra That Klang Nam, the fallen chedi in the middle of the Mekong. Though it's not a full replica, the upper portion has the same general design as the original.
Buddhist Temple
Wat Lam Duan
You can easily pick out this temple on the skyline because an immense Buddha image sits atop the bóht. You're welcome to climb up (shoes off) and gaze over the Mekong with it.
Aquarium
Nong Khai Aquarium
Although it's looking a little shabby these days, this large aquarium offers a fairly interesting collection of freshwater and ocean-dwelling fish from Thailand and beyond. The highlight is the 'Big Tank', which features Mekong River species, including giant Mekong catfish, and has a walk-through tunnel. There's a scuba feeding performance daily at 2pm and also at 11am on Saturday, Sunday and public holidays. The aquarium is 8km out of town. Expect to pay 200-300B for a return tuk-tuk, including waiting time.
Monument
Prap Haw Monument
Nong Khai and the surrounding area came under several attacks by jeen hor (Yunnanese) marauders in the late 19th century. The small Prap Haw Monument ( pràap haw means 'defeat of the Haw') in front of the former provincial office commemorates Thai-Lao victories over Haw invaders in 1886.