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Once a serene tropical paradise, Ko Lipe is now a poster child for untamed development on Thailand's islands. Blessed with two beautiful wide white-sand beaches separated by jungle-covered hills and close to protected coral reefs, the centre of Ko Lipe has been transformed into an ever-expanding maze of hotels, restaurants, cafes, travel agencies and shops. The biggest losers have been the 700-strong community of chow lair (sea gypsies, also spelt chao leh), whose ancestors were gifted Lipe as a home by King Rama V in 1909, but who sold it in the 1970s.
Despite all the development, there is still an awful lot to love about Lipe: those gorgeous, salt-white sand crescents for a start, sensational dive sites, a jungle interior, chilled-out reggae bars, a contagiously friendly vibe and a good few inhabitants keen to minimise their environmental impact. Just don't expect to have it to yourself.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Ko Lipe.
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With its slender strip of golden sand, gentle jungle-covered hills and serene bay that spills into the Adang Strait on the western side of the island, Hat Sunset has a different feel to Lipe's other beaches. During high season (November to April), it's something of a retreat from the more crowded beaches. In low season (May to October) it's very quiet.
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Hat Sunrise, a sublime long stretch of powder-fine sand, runs along Ko Lipe's east coast and is the best beach on the island. From its northernmost point, you'll have spectacular Ko Adang views. The southern end is home to upmarket resorts. During low season (May to October) the line-up of boats and long-tails along the beachfront crowds out swimmers.
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Ko Usen, one of the little islands opposite Hat Sunrise, has some good coral. Most resorts rent out mask-and-snorkel sets and fins (100B to 200B). Take care with long-tail boats, which don't always spot snorkellers and swimmers.
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There’s good coral around Ko Kra, one of the little islands opposite Hat Sunrise, but be aware of, and take care around, oncoming long-tail boats. Most resorts rent out mask-and-snorkel sets and fins for 100B to 200B.
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Busy Hat Pattaya on Lipe's southern coast has beach bars, seafood and a party vibe during the high season, though long-tails often crowd out swimmers.