Craig Easton

Southern Highlands & Islands

The impossibly complex coastline of Scotland’s southwest harbours some of its most inspiring corners. Here, sea travel is key – dozens of ferries allow you to island-hop from the scenic splendour of Arran to majestic Mull or Tiree's lonely sands, via the whisky distilleries of Islay, the wild mountains of Jura, the scenic delights of diminutive Colonsay and Oban's sustainable seafood scene.

On fresh water too, passenger ferries, vintage steamboats, canoes and kayaks ply Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park, a memorable concentration of scenery that’s very accessible but possessed of a wild beauty.

Wildlife experiences are a highlight here, from the rasping spout of a minke whale to the 'krek-krek' of a corncrake. Spot otters tumbling in the kelp, watch sea eagles snatch fish from a lonely loch and thrill to the sight of dolphins riding the bow-wave of your boat.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Southern Highlands & Islands.

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Finlaggan
Three miles from Port Askaig, tumbledown ruins of houses and a chapel on an islet in a shallow loch mark what remains of the stronghold of the Lords of the Isles. A wooden walkway leads over the reeds and water lilies to the island, where information boards describe the remains. Start your exploration at the visitor centre, which has some good explanations of the site's history and archaeology and a video featuring Tony Robinson. The island itself is open at all times. The setting is beautiful and the history fascinating. The MacDonald clan, descendants of the legendary warrior Somerled, administered their island territories from here from the 12th to the 15th centuries and entertained visiting chieftains in their great hall. A smaller island, Eilean na Comhairle, was reserved for solemn councils. Though this unassuming inland loch seems a strange place from which to wield serious political power, it had likely been an important place since prehistoric times. A crannog, fort and early Christian chapel were all located here, and the presence of ritual stones possibly aligned to the brooding Paps of Jura means the MacDonalds may have appropriated a place that already had strong ritual significance. Buses between Bowmore and Port Askaig stop at the road junction, from where it's a 15-minute walk to the loch.
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Iona Abbey
Iona's ancient but heavily reconstructed abbey is the spiritual heart of the island. The spectacular nave, dominated by Romanesque and early Gothic vaults and columns, is a powerful space; a door on the left leads to the beautiful cloister, where medieval grave slabs sit alongside modern religious sculptures. Out the back, the museum displays fabulous carved high crosses and other inscribed stones, along with lots of background information. A replica of the intricately carved St John’s Cross stands outside the abbey. Next to the abbey is an ancient graveyard where there's an evocative Romanesque chapel, as well as a mound that marks the burial place of 48 of Scotland's early kings, including Macbeth. Former Labour party leader John Smith is also buried in this cemetery. The ruined nunnery nearby was established at the same time as the Benedictine abbey. The museum is closed Sundays in winter.
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Mount Stuart
The family seat of the Stuart Earls of Bute is one of Britain's more magnificent 19th-century stately homes, the first to have a telephone, underfloor heating and a heated pool. Its eclectic interior, with an imposing central hall and chapel in Italian marble, is heavily influenced by the third Marquess' interests in Greek mythology and astrology. The drawing room has paintings by Titian and Tintoretto among other masters. Mount Stuart is 5 miles south of Rothesay; bus 490 runs here hourly. Buy tickets at the visitor centre (or book online), from where it's a 15-minute stroll (a courtesy bus is also available) through lovely grounds to the house. Entry is either by guided tour or free visit, depending on the time. Private tours (£20 or £40) offer glimpses of the pool and more bedrooms. There's a cafe serving famously opulent afternoon teas (book ahead). Discounted ferry-plus-entrance tickets are available from CalMac.
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Kilchurn Castle
At the northern end of Loch Awe are the scenic ruins of the strategically situated and much-photographed Kilchurn Castle. Built in 1440, it enjoys one of Scotland’s finest settings. Even when it's not open, it's worth visiting for the scenic stroll to it. It’s a half-mile walk from an unmarked car park on the A85, just west of the Inveraray turnoff between Dalmally and Lochawe. The castle is situated on a tiny peninsula guarding the northern tip of the loch. Long held by the Campbell clan, it was enlarged in 1693 to garrison government troops during the Jacobite uprising; it was then abandoned in the 1750s after a fire ran through most of it. Nowadays it’s just a shell, although a very picturesque one. When it's open, you can climb to the top of the four-storey castle tower for impressive views of Loch Awe and the surrounding hills.
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Hill House
Built in 1902 for Glasgow publisher Walter Blackie, this is perhaps architect Charles Rennie Mackintosh's finest creation – its timeless elegance still feels chic today. The interiors are stunning, with rose motifs and fabulous furniture. Water soaking through the rendered cement exterior means that you'll find the house enclosed in a giant covering structure. You can stay on the top floor here – check the Holidays section of the NTS website. It's near Upper Helensburgh station, though not all trains stop there. The house also has a beautiful garden. Mackintosh was very protective of his creation: he once chided Mrs Blackie for putting the wrong-coloured flowers in a vase in the hall. If you're arriving at Helensburgh Central station, it's about a 1-mile uphill walk to Hill House. Buses 302 and 306 can get you close.
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Loch Lomond & the Trossachs National Park
Two areas of great natural beauty, Loch Lomond and the Trossachs, became the heart of Scotland's first national park, created in 2002. The park extends over a huge area, from Balloch north to Tyndrum and Killin, and from Callander west to the forests of Cowal. The length of Loch Lomond means that access between the western part of the park and the Trossachs is either in the far north of the region via Crianlarich or the far south via Drymen. Waterbuses criss-crossing the lake make it easier for pedestrians and cyclists to connect the two parts of the park.
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Oronsay Priory
If the tide is right, don't miss walking across the half-mile of cockleshell-strewn sand linking Colonsay to smaller Oronsay. Here you can explore the 14th-century ruins of one of Scotland's best-preserved medieval priories. There are two beautiful 15th-century stone crosses in the kirkyard, but the highlight is the collection of superb carved grave slabs in the Prior's House. The island is accessible on foot for about 1½ hours either side of low tide; there are tide tables at the ferry terminal and hotel.
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Bonawe Iron Furnace
Bonawe Iron Furnace is one of the region’s most unusual historical sights. Near Taynuilt (not Bonawe), and dating from 1753, it was built by an iron-smelting company from Cumbria because of the abundance of birch and oak in the area. The coppiced wood was made into the charcoal that was needed for smelting the iron. It's now a tranquil, beautiful place, with the old buildings picturesquely arranged around a green hillside, and there's great background information on the iron industry. Take a picnic!
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Bruichladdich
A couple of miles from Port Charlotte, Bruichladdich (brook -lad- dy) is an infectiously fun distillery to visit and produces a mind-boggling range of bottlings; there's always some new experiment cooking. The standard expression is lightly peated, but they turn out some phenolic monsters under the Port Charlotte and Octomore labels. They also make a gin here, the Botanist, infused with local herbs. A generous attitude to tastings makes for an uplifting visit.