South of the centre, this distillery is great to visit. They malt their own barley; you can see it and the peat kiln used to dry it on the excellent, well-informed hour-long tour. The standard 12-year-old is a soft, balanced malt, great for novices and aficionados alike; the 18-year-old is among the world’s finest drams. This and older whiskies can be tasted on more specialised tours (£20 to £75), which you can prearrange.