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A charming provincial centre, Viseu is one of the Beiras’ most appealing cities. Interest is chiefly focused on its hilltop centre, a walled enclave of quaint plazas and cobbled alleyways capped by a monumental cathedral. For art lovers there are Renaissance treasures to savour in the Museu Grão Vasco, while gourmets can luxuriate in rich red wines from the nearby Dão region, one of Portugal's top wine-producing areas.
Down in the new town, action is centred on Praça da República, aka the ‘Rossio’, a leafy square graced with fountains and beds of colourful flowers.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Viseu.
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Adjoining the cathedral, the granite Paço de Três Escalões (Palace of Three Steps) was originally built as the bishop’s palace. It's now a splendid museum showcasing an important collection of works by local-born Vasco Fernandes, aka Grão Vasco (the Great Vasco; c 1475–1543), one of Portugal’s seminal Renaissance artists.
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Viseu’s cathedral is a striking hybrid of architectural styles. Originally built in the 13th century, it now has a 17th-century Mannerist facade and a soaring 16th-century columned interior. Particularly impressive is the vaulted Manueline ceiling with ribs carved to resemble knotted strands of rope. The rounded arches of the lower level, like the double-tier cloister outside, are early examples of Italian-inspired Renaissance architecture. Note also the azulejo (hand-painted tile) panels and amazing Romanesque-Gothic portal, rediscovered during restoration work in 1918.
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Overlooked by a trio of impressive buildings – the Catedral, Paço de Três Escalões (home of the Museu Grão Vasco) and the Igreja da Misericórdia – the Adro da Sé is Viseu's handsome cathedral square. On its southern flank, the Passeio dos Cônegos is another key feature, an elevated colonnaded porch attributed to the Italian architect Francesco da Cremona.
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This 10-hectare haven of woodland and verdant space sprawls beyond the Portal do Fontelo. Here you'll find the 16th-century Antigo Paço Episcopal (former Bishop’s Palace), now occupied by the Welcome Center – Solar do Vinho do Dão, together with lovely shaded paths, the local sports stadium and a recreation complex.
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Housed in a smart stone house on the river Pavia, this small cultural centre focuses on the area's traditional way of life and artisanal skills. There's a display on the ground floor exhibiting various domestic objects as well as a typical river boat and a working wool loom, while upstairs is given over to temporary exhibitions.
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The 19th-century, azulejo -adorned Museu Almeida Moreira is housed in the former home of art critic and collector Francisco António Almeida Moreira, founder of the Museu Grão Vasco. It displays his eclectic collection of fine furnishings, paintings, ceramics, books and sculpture.
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The north side of Praça da República is adorned with a series of striking azulejo (hand-painted tile) panels depicting scenes from regional life. The blue, white and yellow illustrations were painted in 1931 by Joaquim Lopes (1886–1956).
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Facing the cathedral is the 1775 Igreja da Misericórdia, whose white rococo exterior contrasts markedly with its rather dull neoclassical interior. A museum and treasury display a small collection of paintings, documents and religious objects.
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An attractive sloping square looking up to the Passeio dos Cônegos, this was the city's principal square until the 19th century. Standing in the centre is a statue of Dom Duarte, the Portuguese monarch who was born in Viseu in 1391.