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Małopolska

Małopolska, known in English as Lesser Poland, is the sprawling region that brushes up against Kraków. Covering much of the southeast, it’s played an outsized role in Polish history, forming the core of the ancient Polish kingdom. These days, though, it’s mostly passed over by travellers who make a beeline for Kraków and then move on.

That’s a pity. The region is rich in natural beauty, with rolling hills and several national parks. Sandomierz, an ancient Gothic town on a bluff overlooking the Vistula River, is one of Poland’s prettiest places. A close runner-up is the popular weekend destination of Kazimierz Dolny. Zamość is a World Heritage site.

The region is also rich in cultural diversity. Częstochowa is a pilgrimage site for Roman Catholics. To the east, Lublin and Chełm were once home to large Jewish communities, and moving traces of their centuries-long existence and demise are important sights today.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Małopolska.

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    Paulite Monastery of Jasna Góra

    Poland’s spiritual capital began with the arrival of the Paulite order from Hungary in 1382, who named the 293m hill in the western part of the city ‘Jasna Góra’ (Bright Hill) and erected this monastery. Believers are drawn to the site for miracles credited to the Black Madonna painting in the Chapel of Our Lady, though there are many other sights worth seeing, too. The information centre arranges guided tours in English. The monastery entrance is on the south side.

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    Bełżec Memorial

    This subdued memorial and museum bears witness to the 600,000 Jews killed here in 1942 by the Nazis as part of their ‘Operation Reinhard’, the German plan to eliminate the Jewish population of occupied Poland. There were only two known survivors from Bełżec. The memorial, moving in its simplicity, covers the surprisingly small site of the original camp. Children under 14 are not permitted into the museum, which while small, is very well done. Plan on spending one to two hours.

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    Sobibór Memorial

    For several decades, the Sobibór memorial was a simple collection of monuments and a tiny museum. It was moving in its simplicity, the paucity of visitors adding to the contemplative atmosphere. The site is now being massively transformed. A new museum is set to open by 2021, with exhibits designed for visitors several generations removed from WWII. In the meantime, much of the memorial is technically closed, but you can arrange visits in advance and there is a public viewing area.

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    Majdanek

    Majdanek concentration camp, where tens of thousands of people, mainly Jews, were murdered by the Germans during WWII, lies on the outskirts of Lublin – guard towers and barbed-wire fences interrupting the suburban sprawl are a jarring juxtaposition. Allow half a day for the 5km walk around the 270-hectare camp; if pushed for time, visit the historical exhibition in barracks 62 and the photographic display in barracks 45. Majdanek is 4km southeast of the Kraków Gate: take bus 23.

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    Benedictine Monastery of Holy Cross

    This hilltop monastery got its name from the segment of Jesus’ cross that was supposedly kept here. The abbey is at the top of Łysa Góra (595m). It has a fascinating history going back nearly a millennium. Besides the 2km hike up from the Nowa Słupia entrance, there's access from the west via the village of Huta Szklana. While you can drive up, many prefer to park and hike up the moderately steep and bucolic 1.8km road to the monastery.

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    Chapel of Our Lady

    The oldest part of the Paulite Monastery of Jasna Góra contains the revered Black Madonna. The picture is unveiled to soaring music and prayer at 6am and 1.30pm (2pm Saturday and Sunday) and covered again at noon and 9.20pm (1pm and 9.20pm Saturday and Sunday). Be sure to note the walls displaying votive offerings brought by pilgrims. Adjoining the chapel is the impressive basilica (bazylika). Its present shape dates to the 17th century and the interior has opulent baroque furnishings.

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    Rynek Wielki

    The Great Market Sq is the heart of Zamość's attractive Old Town. This impressive Italianate Renaissance square (exactly 100m by 100m) is dominated by the lofty, mauve town hall and surrounded by colourful arcaded burghers' houses, many adorned with elegant designs (arcades were made compulsory by Jan Zamoyski). Spending time absorbing the beauty at a cafe or sitting on a bench people-watching is one of Zamość's great pleasures.

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    Kraków Bishops' Palace

    Kielce was the property of the Kraków bishops from the 12th century through to 1789. This palace was built (from 1637 onwards) as one of their seats and remains a testament to the richness of that era. The highlight of a visit is the restored 17th- and 18th-century interiors, which still feel very lived in. Be sure to ask at the admission counter for a free (and excellent) English-language booklet on the sights. With the cathedral, this compound is reason enough to visit Kielce.

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    Pieskowa Skała Castle

    If you can only do one thing in Ojców National Park, visit this 14th-century castle, one of the best-preserved castles in the upland. The castle was rebuilt in the 16th century in imitation of the royal residence of Wawel and is now a branch of the Wawel Royal Castle museum, with many exhibitions and a large collection of art and artefacts from the 15th to 19th centuries. The castle is near the park's north end, about 8km north of Ojców village.