An absurdly affordable spice-fest, humble Zhang Mama is run by a multi-generational family of Sichuan exiles (including mama), all with mad wok skills. The signature is xiāngguō (香锅; ¥48 to ¥58), a humongous bowl of either chicken (香锅鸡; xiāngguō jī), shrimp (香锅虾; xiāngguō xiā) or pork ribs (香锅排骨; xiāngguō páigǔ) amid a witches' brew of veggies, whole spices and chillies. One bowl will do two to three diners.
Similarly abundant is the huíguōròu (回锅肉; ¥28), a smoky, ‘twice-cooked’ Sichuan pork rump sliced thin and served with veggies, fried dough pieces and, yep, more chillies. Sichuan-style dandan noodles (担担面; dàndàn miàn; ¥8) are authentically dry, while classics including mapo tofu (麻婆豆腐; mápó dòufu; ¥16) are equally assured.
In warm weather, everybody eats bō bō jī (钵钵鸡; ¥8), a pot of spicy cold broth into which you dip skewers of cooked veggies (¥1 each). Help yourself to skewers from the fridges; staff will count the discarded sticks when it's time to pay.
Zhang Mama is hugely popular, so expect to queue; a useful hack is to arrive between 9pm and 9.30pm. There are a few other locations around town, including one a short walk north of Gulou subway station. No English menu.
