North Korea

An ideological statement forged in concrete, bronze and marble, Pyongyang (평양; 'flat land') is the ultimate totalitarian metropolis, built almost entirely from scratch following its destruction in the Korean War. Every visit to North Korea focuses heavily and enthusiastically on the capital's monuments, towers, statues and buildings that glorify Kim Il-sung, Kim Jong-il and the Juche philosophy.

While these bombastic statement pieces are all impressive, the real delights of Pyongyang are to be had in the quieter moments when you can glimpse everyday life. A gentle stroll on the city's relaxed Moran Hill, for example, is a great chance to see locals having picnics, playing music and idling away sunny afternoons. As you are bussed between sights, you’ll often be able to detect a semblance of normality surviving in the capital, though you'll definitely have to look pretty hard for it.

The sad sight of a divided nation remains one of the most poignant aspects of any trip to North Korea. Even if you're just in North Korea for a couple of days, almost every tour includes a trip to the DMZ. Seeing the situation from the North – facing off against US and South Korean troops to the south – is a unique chance to witness things from an alternative perspective.

Paekdu, one of the most stunning sights on the Korean peninsula, straddles the Chinese–Korean border in the very far northeastern tip of DPRK. Apart from being the country's highest mountain at 2744m (9000ft), and an amazing geological phenomenon (an extinct volcano with a vast crater lake at its centre), it's also of huge mythical importance to Koreans.

The area around Chilbosan (Mt Chilbo, 칠보산) is one of the most beautiful places in North Korea. It’s also incredibly remote – the only way to get here in reasonable time is to charter a flight from Pyongyang to Orang airport, from where Chilbosan is a three-hour drive down a rather Mediterranean-looking coastline of high, jagged cliffs, small fishing villages and sandy beaches.

There’s little to do here save enjoy the spectacular scenery, and you’ll usually be driven around the attractive valleys, peaks and viewpoints of Chilbosan, including a stop at various beaches and the Kaesim Buddhist Temple, which dates from the 9th century. The unusual Mt Chilbo Homestay Program is another reason to visit – this is a unique accommodation option that allows you to stay with a local family (more or less).

Just outside Wonsan is the Masik-Ryong Ski Resort, a pet project of Kim Jong-un that was completed in record time by the army in 2016. With several runs (one over 5km long), bunny slopes, skidoos, skating and the very impressive and luxurious Masik-Ryong Hotel, this is truly unlike anything else in North Korea.

Though just a few miles from the DMZ and the world’s most concentrated build-up of military forces, Kaesong (개성) is a fairly relaxed place just off the Reunification Hwy from Pyongyang. The city may boast an impressive 12 Unesco World Heritage sites, but is dominated by massive statues of Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il atop a large hill.

Once the capital of the Koryo dynasty, Kaesong has an interesting old quarter as well as the country’s most atmospheric hotel, but tours rarely spend much time here. Having seen the DMZ, you'll usually be billeted at the hotel for the night before returning to Pyongyang, although a fascinating walk through the town with your guides to the top of the hill is usually possible.