Rakhine State’s capital, Sittwe (စစ္ေတြ; still known sometimes by its former name Aykab), sits in an incredible spot where the wide, tidal Kaladan River kisses the big fat Bay of Bengal. It's a historic place, although there's little of that past still around or accessible. There are some lively markets, and when the new port is finished, an economic boom might liven things up, but for now there's little of real...
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