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The Romans had the right idea, building their summer villas on this lovely bay. If only the new crop of developers had a scrap of their classic good taste. Still, once you get down to the pretty beachside promenade where lush Mediterranean plants perfume the air and a 16th-century Venetian fortress guards a tiny stone harbour, the aberrations up the hill are barely visible. This is one of the best places on the coast for families: the accommodation is reasonably priced, the water is clear and kids roam the esplanade at night with impunity.
Petrovac (Петровац) enjoyed a few minutes of Hollywood fame in 2006 when the town was billed as the location for the Casino Royale in the James Bond film of the same name. Tourists and developers arrived in droves; many of them still haven't discovered that all 'Petrovac' scenes were actually filmed in the Czech Republic.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Petrovac.
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Clamber up the steps of this small Venetian fortress for photogenic views of the beach and the dramatic diagonal stratification of the limestone cliffs melting into the turquoise water below. An interesting socialist-realist bas-relief remembering the ‘socialist revolution’ is partly obscured in the foliage. The entrance is by the small Petrovac harbour.
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The small church on this islet is said to have been built in gratitude by a Greek sailor who was shipwrecked here. The current church replaces one destroyed in the 1979 earthquake. Local lore has it that ringing the church bell will bring health and happiness.
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One of two islets directly in front of the town beach, Katič can be visited via kayak or by hopping aboard a tourist boat; have a word to any of the chaps in the small harbour about getting a ride across. There's a small cave to explore.
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Apart from the beaches, Petrovac’s most interesting attraction is also its least heralded. In 1902, the foundations of a Roman building complete with mosaics, probably dating from the 4th century, were discovered in an olive grove and here they remain in a precarious state of preservation. A glass shed covers a section of mosaic roughly 10m by 15m; it’s invariably locked but you can peer through the windows. Around the shed, extensive brick foundations can be seen.
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Dedicated to the Old Testament prophet Elijah, this Orthodox church dates from the 14th or 15th century. It's often open, revealing some beautiful old icons.
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Petrovac became the first communist-run municipality in the Adriatic following an electoral victory in 1919. That auspicious event is celebrated in the Red Commune Memorial House on the waterfront, which contains a modern art gallery and revolutionary museum. The latter consists mainly of photos and documents without any English captions; it doesn't get a lot of visitors these days but the bemused staff will unlock it for you upon request.