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Veracruz

Taking up much of Mexico's Gulf coastline, the long and diverse state of Veracruz is where the Spanish conquest of the Aztecs began. It was also the cradle of the aptly named Veracruz Mesoamerican culture at El Tajín and is home to Mexico's highest peak – soaring, snowcapped Orizaba.

As a destination, it's routinely overlooked by travelers, and while it's true that the beaches are better in the Yucatán and the colonial towns can be more impressive in Mexico's central and western highlands, Veracruz has both, without the hassle. It also lays claim to the World Heritage site of colonial Tlacotalpan, the inspiring Biosphere Reserve of Los Tuxtlas and some gorgeous pueblos mágicos (magical villages), including hilly Papantla, coffee-growing Coscomatepec and smaller, equally appealing Xico.

Its biggest attraction, however, is its quietness. Wherever you go here, you'll find yourself well off the beaten path, with discoveries just waiting to be made.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Veracruz.

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El Tajín
No one knows for sure who built this mighty pre-Hispanic city of around 20,000 inhabitants (The Totonacs? The Huastecs?), which is why archaeologists refer to the civilization as Classic Veracruz. But one thing's for sure: this site, dating back to AD 800 and discovered by accident in 1785, is one of the most atmospheric, best-preserved and most thoroughly excavated pre-Hispanic cities in Mesoamerica. Seven kilometers away from Papantla, El Tajín's extensive ruins are easily reachable by frequent bus (M$20).
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Museo de Antropología
Attached to spacious gardens, 4km northwest of the center, this remarkable museum contains Mexico’s second-finest archaeological collection. The focus is on the main pre-Hispanic civilizations from the Gulf coast, principally the Olmecs, the Totonacs, the Huastecs and Classic Veracruz, and the beautifully displayed artifacts are presented in chronological order in a series of interconnecting galleries that descend the side of a lush hill.
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Quiahuiztlán
Perched like a mini–Machu Picchu on a plateau beneath a horn-shaped mountain, Quiahuiztlán is a pre-Hispanic Totonac town and necropolis. Enjoying a commanding view of the Gulf coast, the now-deserted site has two pyramids, more than 70 tombs and some carved monuments. Buses plying Hwy 180 drop you at the Quiahuiztlán turnoff from where the site is reachable via a pleasant 3km walk up a winding paved road.
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Zócalo
Any exploration of Veracruz has to begin with its zócalo (also called the Plaza de Armas and Plaza Lerdo), the city’s unofficial outdoor ‘stage’ where inspired organized events overlap with the day-to-day improvisation of Mexican life. The handsome public space is framed by portales (arcades), the 17th-century Palacio Municipal and an 18th-century cathedral. The level of activity accelerates throughout the day until the evening, when the zócalo becomes thick with souvenir sellers, musical entertainers, merrymakers and bystanders.
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El Cuajilote
Only discovered in the early 1990s, this beautiful site dates back to AD 600–900 and was once home to peoples unknown. It consists of temples, platforms and shrines, partially reclaimed from the jungle, around a long, rectangular plaza, and is worth visiting for the beauty of the surroundings alone; you are likely to have the serene place to yourself.
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Vega de la Peña
Reachable only on foot and covering 8 sq km, the remains of this pre-Hispanic settlement have been only partially excavated. It shows Olmec, Huastec, Totonac and Toltec influences and its history spans more than 1500 years, from BC 100 to AD 1500, though its heyday seems to have been between AD 1200 and 1500. It's 2.5km away from the El Cuajilote site, where you can get directions.
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Teleférico de Orizaba
For a fab excursion, ride this cable car that glides smoothly from its riverside site across from the Palacio Municipal up to the top of the Cerro del Borrego hill (1240m). From here there are incredible views over the city and easy access to hiking routes. It takes just five minutes to travel nearly 1km and climb some 320m.
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Cempoala
The remains of a major Totonac settlement of around 30,000 people date back to around AD 1200 and sit on the outskirts of modern-day Zempoala, reachable by frequent buses from Cardel (M$20). The temples and buildings at this quiet, grassy site have undergone extensive renovation works, and most are studded with smooth, rounded riverbed stones, though many were originally plastered and painted. Cempoala once had defensive walls, underground water and drainage pipes, and human sacrifices were held in its temples.
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Playa Escondida
This is probably the single best beach in the whole state, but it's not an easy one to access. Turn off the main road onto a dirt road just before Balzapote village. Follow this potholed road for 10 minutes to a moldering relic of a hotel. From there, you’ll find a path leading to a long set of crumbling stairs going to Playa Escondida (Hidden Beach), which earns its name.