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Mauritania

The British Foreign and Commonwealth Office advise against all travel to much of Mauritania, and against all but essential travel to the remainder of the country. Click here for more information.

Driving through the vast, sun-bleached landscape of Mauritania, you'd be forgiven for expecting to see a tricked-out post-apocalyptic hot rod from Mad Max on the horizon. Instead, a solitary, turbaned figure tending a herd of goats tells the story of survival amid millennial-old geological forces. Mauritania, with one of the world's lowest population densities, is almost equally divided between Moors of Arab-Berber descent and Black Africans, a striking cultural combination that is part of its appeal.

There's no doubt that Mauritania has some of the continent's grandest scenery. The Saharan Adrar region, with its World Heritage–listed caravan towns, is currently off-limits for security reasons, but the desert is a constant presence elsewhere, pushing hard up against the Atlantic Coast. Millions of migratory birds winter along the coast at Parc National du Banc d'Arguin, and the expanding capital Nouakchott is where modernity takes root in the desert.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Mauritania.

  • See

    Port de Pêche

    The Port de Pêche is Nouakchott's star attraction. Lively and colourful, you'll see hundreds of teams of mostly Wolof and Fula men dragging in heavy fishing nets. Small boys hurry back and forth with trays of fish, which they sort, gut, fillet and lay out on large trestles to dry. The best time to visit is late afternoon, when the fishing boats return. Before or after, it's no less an impressive sight with the pirogues crammed like sardines on the beach. Do not swim here or nearby – there's a strong undertow and people drown every year. Otherwise, it's pretty safe as long as you're vigilant and sensible with your possessions, although people can be sensitive about photography. Take a taxi (UM1000) from the centre.

  • See

    Le Ksar al Kiali

    As you arrive across the sands or plateau from Atâr or Chinguetti, the stone houses of Le Ksar al Kiali seem to tumble down the cliff. The top of the hill is dominated by the minaret of the new mosque, which is a mere 200 years old, while at the western end, at the base of the town, is the 14th-century old mosque. In between, the crumbling structures seem to have been piled up higgledy-piggledy by some giant child playing with building blocks.

  • See

    Grande Mosquée

    Its slender minarets and sandy courtyards, where worshippers perform their ceremonial ablutions, makes the Grande Mosquée a notable landmark in the city centre. While not architecturally significant, at the very least it can help orient oneself in a neighbourhood of low-lying buildings.

  • See

    Musée National

    Moderately worthwhile for anyone with an interest in Moorish culture. On the first level is a prehistoric gallery with archaeological exhibits while the second level is taken up with more recent ethnographic displays from Moorish society. The building is labelled as the Ministry of Culture.

  • See

    Mosquée Marocaine

    The large Mosquée Marocaine is a precious landmark in this bustling area. Located south of Ave Abdel Nasser, towards the Cinquième Quartier.

  • See

    Friday Mosque

    Notable for its blindingly white facade. Visitors aren't permitted inside during prayer times.