Walk along Broad St, Monrovia's main boulevard, and you'll hear the original beat of locally brewed hip-co and the gentle rhythm of Liberian English. You'll see the architectural ghosts of Monrovia's past and the uniformed school children of its future. You'll watch entrepreneurs climb into sleek, low-slung cars, market men sell coconuts from rusty wheelbarrows, and models sashay in tight jeans and heels.
Monrovia has been everything over the decades – a splendid capital brimming with elegant stores and faces, a party city monitored by sheriffs wearing secondhand US police uniforms, and a broken-hearted city struggling to climb to its feet after both war and a deadly Ebola outbreak. It has shaken off many of its old epithets and is infused with a new, exciting energy.