Northern Honshū (Tōhoku)

The mountains of Haguro-san (Birth), Gas-san (Death) and Yudono-san (Rebirth) represent both the cycle of life and the stages you may go through when tackling the three famous peaks of Dewa Sanzan (出羽三山). The folk religion Shugendō's white-clad devotees worship a hybrid of Buddhism and Shintō and can be seen trekking the well-worn trail with wooden staffs, sandals and conical straw hats, alongside fleece-clad hikers equipped with poles, waterproof boots and bandanas.

Yamabushi (mountain priests) go that extra step in their unmistakable conch shells, chequered jackets and voluminous white pantaloons. Come winter you can join them beneath an icy waterfall to discipline both body and spirit, or just watch them pass from the comfort of your temple lodging at either end of the journey.

Descendants of the Satake clan in Kakunodate (角館) can look back proudly at the architectural and aesthetic vision of their forebears. The buke yashiki (samurai district) is arguably the finest in the country; most of its buildings are still in perfect working order and are open to visitors. Horticulturalists, meanwhile, will delight in the manicured gardens and cherry trees that welcome trainloads of domestic tourists to this living relic of feudal Japan.

The town was established in 1620 by Ashina Yoshikatsu, the lord of the Satake clan, and is well protected by mountains on three sides.

Hemmed in by rocky shores and dense forests, sparkling Towada-ko (十和田湖) is the largest crater lake in Honshū (52km in circumference) and a fabulous natural attraction for those seeking solitude. Towada-Hachimantai National Park once bore witness to a series of violent volcanic eruptions; today the only action is the quiet trickle of the Oirase Keiryū mountain stream, winding its way to the Pacific Ocean. The main tourist hub, Yasumiya, is a small village with a lovely waterfront promenade. The other lakeside village, Nenokuchi, is little more than a transport hub.

Immortalised by the itinerant haiku master, Matsuo Bashō, in The Narrow Road to the Deep North (1689), Yamadera (山寺), meaning 'mountain temple', is home to some very special temple buildings. The town was founded in AD 860 by priests who carried with them the sacred flame from Enryaku-ji near Kyoto, believing that Yamadera's rock faces were the boundaries between this world and the next. Supposedly that flame remains lit to this day.

The village's main attraction is the temple of Risshaku-ji, and a steady stream of tourists and pilgrims arrive daily to scale its 1000 steps. While it's possible (though precarious) to visit Yamadera during winter, a visit in the warmer months will be more enjoyable.

Named for the bosom-shaped hills from where its famed milky-white waters spring, Nyūtō Onsen (乳頭温泉; nyūtō means 'nipple') is an isolated onsen village at the end of a mountain road. Offering the practice of konyoku (mixed-gender bathing), there's hardly a better place to enjoy nature in all its glory. Better yet, seven onsen can be visited on a single pass. When it all gets too hot, you can head downhill for a refreshing dip in, or a wander around, glittering Tazawa-ko.

Above the village, at the base of the mountain, you'll find this huge open-air hot-spring pool. The sulphur-stained rocks set the stage for the spectacle of dozens of complete strangers bathing naked together in joyful unison. If you arrive for first light in the warmer months, you'll have the place to yourself.

Matsushima (松島) is heavily romanticised by Japanese travellers due to its status as one of Japan's Three Great Sights (Nihon Sankei). It was also immortalised by the poet Matsuo Bashō, who revered its glorious bay's 260-odd pine-covered islands, battered by wind and sea to form a kind of Zen rock garden in the ocean. When the sun sets and a storm rolls in, the effect on the islands is mesmerising. The main village itself has some fine ancient temples, impressive ryokan, seafood shacks and a charming seaside feel. Try to avoid the high-summer weekend crowds.

Not much more than a bus stop and a ski resort, Naeba (苗場) nonetheless enjoys a gorgeous mountain location. Expect some serious talent on the slopes (and at the welcoming après-ski scene). Indie music lovers across the world know Naeba for the wondrous summertime Fuji Rock Festival, Japan's biggest outdoor music festival.

Home to Tōhoku's first Unesco World Heritage listing, Hiraizumi (平泉) is a handsome feudal town with architectural remnants courtesy of the gold-mining Ōshu Fujiwara clan who ruled here throughout the 12th century. Chief among the town's attractions is the Chūson-ji temple complex. Dedicated to the principles of Buddhism, the buildings have been thoughtfully integrated into the natural surrounds. While feudal strife eventually brought the old town's demise, visitors will appreciate modern Hiraizumi's understated charm.

Extending from Aomori Prefecture in the north, through Iwate and Miyagi Prefectures to the south, the vast Sanriku Kaigan (三陸海岸) is a rugged and beautiful stretch of coastline marked by steep rocky cliffs and a 'ria' topography. Rias are characterised by broad estuaries that funnel into long, narrow inlets. It is on the low-lying land around the rias of Sanriku Kaigan that communities developed. Ironically these peculiarities that sustain life here also amplify tsunami – sadly the Sanriku coast bore the brunt of the Great East Japan Earthquake and subsequent tsunami in March 2011.

Most of the low-lying areas of towns and villages here were levelled, and almost 20,000 people lost their lives. It's a humbling experience to see what remains and to try to imagine what was here before. Mass reconstruction efforts have taken place, with much success: existing businesses have re-established themselves and new restaurants and hotels are popping up everywhere.