The sprawling, wooded and water-crossed Usa-jingū, the original of which dates back some 1200 years, is the chief shrine among some 40,000 in Japan dedicated to the warrior-god Hachiman. An audio 'touch pen' guide (¥500), available at the tourist information office near the bus stop, offers detailed descriptions in English. Allow one to two hours to view the entire grounds, up to four hours if you listen to all the audio content.

It’s a 4km bus (¥230, seven minutes, hourly) or taxi ride from Usa Station (get off at Usa-Hachiman-mae), on the JR Nippō line from Beppu. Parking costs ¥400. A monorail helps those with limited mobility.

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