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Kyoto

Kyoto is old Japan writ large: atmospheric temples, sublime gardens and traditional teahouses.

Japan's Spiritual Heart

This is a city of some 2000 temples and shrines: a city of true masterpieces of religious architecture, such as the retina-burning splendor of Kinkaku-ji (the famed Golden Pavilion) and the cavernous expanse of Higashi Hongan-ji. It's where robed monks shuffle between temple buildings, prayer chants resonate through stunning Zen gardens, and the faithful meditate on tatami-mat floors. Even as the modern city buzzes and shifts all around, a waft of burning incense, or the sight of a bright vermillion torii gate marking a shrine entrance, are regular reminders that Kyoto remains the spiritual heart of Japan.

A Trip for the Tastebuds

Few cities of this size pack such a punch when it comes to their culinary cred, and at its heart is Nishiki Market ('Kyoto's kitchen'). Kyoto is crammed with everything from Michelin-starred restaurants, chic cocktail bars, cool cafes and sushi spots to food halls, izakaya (Japanese pub-eateries), craft-beer bars and old-school noodle joints. Splurge on the impossibly refined cuisine known as kaiseki while gazing over your private garden, taste the most delicate tempura in a traditional building, slurp down steaming bowls of ramen elbow-to-elbow with locals, then slip into a sugar coma from a towering matcha (powdered green tea) sundae.

A City of Artisans

While the rest of Japan has adopted modernity with abandon, the old ways are still clinging on in Kyoto. With its roots as the cultural capital of the country, it's no surprise that many traditional arts and crafts are kept alive by artisans from generation to generation. Wander the streets downtown, through historic Gion and past machiya (traditional Japanese townhouses) in the Nishijin textile district to find ancient speciality shops from tofu sellers, washi (Japanese handmade paper) and tea merchants, to exquisite lacquerware, handcrafted copper chazutsu (tea canisters) and indigo-dyed noren (hanging curtains).

Cultural Encounters

If you don't know your matcha (powdered green tea) from your manga (Japanese comic), have never slept on a futon or had a bath with naked strangers, then it doesn't matter as this is the place to immerse yourself in the intricacies of Japanese culture. Whether you watch matcha being whisked in a traditional tea ceremony, spend the night in a ryokan, get your gear off and soak in an onsen, join a raucous hanami (cherry-blossom viewing) party or discover the art of Japanese cooking – you'll come away one step closer to understanding the unique Japanese way of life.

Must see in
Kyoto

  • Kinkaku-ji

    Talk about eye candy: the gold-plated main hall of this immensely popular temple in northwest Kyoto is probably the most impressive sight in the entire city. The hall rises above its reflecting pond like an apparition and if you're lucky enough to be here on a bright sunny day, you almost need sunglasses to look at it. The surrounding gardens and cosy teahouse Sekka-tei are also worth a visit here. Go early on a weekday morning to avoid the crush of people that descend on the temple each day.

  • Fushimi Inari-Taisha

    This sprawling Shintō shrine is arguably one of Japan’s most arresting visual spectacles. Thousands of vermilion torii (entrance gate to a Shintō shrine) line paths that criss-cross this mountain in southeast Kyoto. Visit the main hall and then head up the hill towards the summit. Be prepared to be utterly mesmerised. If you have time, do the circular pilgrimage route around the top of the mountain. And don’t be afraid to get lost – that’s part of the fun at Fushimi.

  • Gion District

    Gion, Kyoto’s traditional entertainment district, is the best place in the city to catch a glimpse of ‘old Japan’. With no fewer than three geisha districts scattered about, you stand a good chance of spotting a geisha (known as geiko in Kyoto) scurrying to an appointment. But geisha are only part of the story here: Gion also contains some of the most picturesque lanes in Kyoto, including Shimbashi.

  • Ginkaku-ji

    A paradise tucked at the base of the Higashiyama mountains, Kyoto’s famed Silver Pavilion is everything a Buddhist temple ought to be. The eponymous pavilion looks over a tranquil pond, and the stroll garden is sublime. Make your way past the unique sand mounds (used to reflect moonlight into the main hall for moon-viewing ceremonies), then climb the pathway to a lookout that offers panoramic views over the entire city. The autumn foliage here is among the best in the city.

  • Chion-in

    Called by some ‘the Vatican of Pure Land Buddhism’, this temple complex is a thriving hub of religious activity. The 24m-high San-mon gate is one of the largest wooden tower gates in Japan. The main hall is an imposing and impressive building, though it's closed to the public until 2020. Wander the gardens visiting the collection of temple buildings here and allow yourself to be transported to blissful realms by the chanting of the monks. Then head up the hill to admire the enormous 70-tonne temple bell.

  • Daitoku-ji

    Carefully raked gravel representing rippling water, stylised arrangements of rocks, pruned trees, lush moss and dripping water – just one of these Zen garden features would be enough to have you feeling calm and contemplative, but here you have a mini world of them. Daitoku-ji is a complex of wandering lanes and subtemples with some of the most beautiful kare-sansui (dry landscape) gardens hidden inside their gates. It serves as the Rinzai Daitoku-ji school of Zen Buddhism headquarters and you'll be hard-pressed to find anywhere quite so meditative and atmospheric.

  • Ōkōchi Sansō

    While tourists descend on the nearby Bamboo Grove like paparazzi snapping photos of a big-wig celebrity, Arashiyama's Ōkōchi Sansō sits out of the limelight like a star waiting to be discovered. This charming estate is the former home of the famous samurai film actor from the 1920s, Ōkōchi Denjirō. The sprawling gardens here invite lazy wandering and there are fine views from the top of the hill. Take a break in the traditional teahouse with matcha (green powdered tea) and a sweet, and relish your escape from the crowds.

  • Nishiki Market

    Nishiki Market positively oozes old Japan atmosphere and you can imagine what it was like here before someone decided to attach the word ‘super’ to the word ‘market’. Get off the temple trail and head here to discover some of the best and bizarre ingredients that go into Kyoto cuisine. Wander past stalls hawking slimy, shiny, slithering and spicy goods and try your best to work out what it is you're looking at. You can also grab a street-food snack or shop for high-end kitchenware and knives at Aritsugu.

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