Laid out in the late 19th century as the centrepiece of an upmarket residential district, but today with a rundown, seedy feel, Rome’s biggest square is a grassy expanse, surrounded by speeding traffic, porticoes and bargain stores. Within the fenced-off central section are the ruins of Trofei di Mario, once a fountain at the end of an aqueduct.

In the northern corner, the Chiesa di Sant’Eusebio is popular with pet owners who bring their companions to be blessed on St Anthony’s feast day (17 January).