In a workshop with glue simmering on the hob and tools covering the walls, luthiers Salvatore Masiello and Michele Caiazza build mandolins under the warm glow of spotlights. This tiny space, which could almost have been fashioned by the Neapolitan crib artisans of nearby San Gregorio Armeno, is found in the bowels of a crumbling 17th-century palazzo (mansion). Visitors are welcome to drop in (on a donation basis) to learn about Neapolitan folk song and the long-standing tradition of instrument-making in the city.