Torn between its glorious past and its recent bloody history, Iraq is a country in turmoil. Just as the place was beginning to recover from the 2003 US-led invasion and its aftermath, jihadist group Isis took control of large swathes of the country's north in 2014. The tide may have turned back in favour of the Iraqi government with the recapture of Mosul and other cities in 2017, but most of Iraq remains extremely dangerous.
The country's attractions include breathtaking mountains, vibrant cities and numerous archaeological sites, not to mention a warm and hospitable population. But Western governments continue to advise against all but essential travel to parts of Iraqi Kurdistan and the south of the country, and against all travel to most of the north and west of Iraq. Follow their advice and postpone your visit until peace returns.