The Mesjid Ampel is the most sacred mosque in Surabaya. While non-Muslims aren't allowed to enter the mosque itself, the souk-style streets surrounding it make it a worthwhile visit. It was here that Sunan Ampel (one of the wali songo who brought Islam to Java) was buried in 1481. The mosque itself is a huge space, the vast expanse of its marble floor divided by dozens of wooden pillars, but there’s very little in the way of ornamentation.

Behind the mosque, pilgrims chant and present rose-petal offerings at Sunan Ampel’s grave.

You have to access the mosque on foot. The most direct route is to take the lane that leads west from Jl Ampel Suci – a crowd of becak marks the entrance.