This modest palace and its temple, Puri Saren Agung, share a compound in the heart of Ubud. Most of the structures were built after the 1917 earthquake, and the local royal family still lives here. Despite the name, this sprawling compound is not palatial or excessively ornate. Rather, it's a warren of courtyards and traditional Balinese buildings that extend well beyond the limited area open to visitors. You can wander around most of the compound and explore the many traditional buildings.
Take time to appreciate the stone carvings. Many are by notable Ubud artists such as I Gusti Nyoman Lempad (1862–1978) and can be easily appreciated on a brief visit. At night, the palace's main courtyard is a popular and evocative venue for dance performances. One way to gain access to the inner sanctum is to stay in one of two midrange guest rooms hidden inside (search for "Istana Saren Kauh Ubud" on Airbnb). This way, you can rise with the roosters in the morning, feel the rhythms of the royal compound and observe traditional Balinese life.
Just north, Pura Marajan Agung is the private temple for the royal family. The compound across from the palace has a magnificent banyan tree, and is also used as a residence for the family.
