Subscribe

David Noton

Snæfellsnes Peninsula

Sparkling fjords, dramatic volcanic peaks, sheer sea cliffs, sweeping golden beaches and crunchy lava flows make up the diverse and fascinating landscape of the 100km-long Snæfellsnes Peninsula. The area is crowned by the glistening ice cap Snæfellsjökull, immortalised in Jules Verne’s Journey to the Centre of the Earth. Good roads and regular buses mean that it’s an easy trip from Reykjavík, offering a cross-section of the best Iceland has to offer in a very compact region.

Stykkishólmur, on the populated northern coast, is the region’s largest town and a logical base. Moving west along the northern coast, you'll pass smaller townships. On the western part of the peninsula, Snæfellsjökull National Park encompasses not only its glacier but also bird sanctuaries and lava fields. The quiet southern coast has several good horse farms beneath towering crags.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Snæfellsnes Peninsula.

  • See

    Djúpalón Beach

    On the southwest coast, Rte 572 leads off Rte 574 to wild black-sand beach Djúpalónssandur. It’s a dramatic place to walk, with rock formations (an elf church, and a kerling – a troll woman), two brackish pools (for which the beach was named) and the rock-arch Gatklettur. Some of the black sands are covered in pieces of rusted metal from the English trawler Eding, which was shipwrecked here in 1948. An asphalt car park and public toilets allow tour-bus access, and crowds. Down on the beach you can still see four lifting stones where fishing-boat crews would test the strength of aspiring fishermen. The smallest stone is Amloði (Bungler) at 23kg, followed by Hálfdrættingur (Weak) at 54kg, Hálfsterkur (Half-Strong) at 100kg, and the largest, Fullsterker (Fully Strong), at 154kg. Hálfdrættingur marked the frontier of wimphood, and any man who couldn’t heft it was deemed unsuitable for a life at sea. A series of rocky sea stacks, some of which are thought to be a troll church, emerge from the ocean up the coast as you tramp north over the craggy headland to reach the black-sand beach at Dritvík. From the 16th to the 19th century Dritvík was the largest fishing station in Iceland, with up to 60 fishing boats, but now there are only ruins near the edge of the lava field.

  • See

    Snæfellsjökull

    It’s easy to see why Jules Verne selected Snæfell for his adventure Journey to the Centre of the Earth: the peak was torn apart when the volcano beneath it exploded and then collapsed back into its own magma chamber, forming a huge caldera. Among certain New Age groups, Snæfellsjökull is considered one of the world’s great ‘power centres’. Today the crater is filled with the ice cap (highest point 1446m) and is a popular summer destination. The best way to reach the glacial summit is to take a tour with Summit Adventure Guides, Snæfellsjökull Glacier Tours or Go West!. These companies approach the peak from the south, on Rte F570; Rte F570’s northern approach (near Ólafsvík) is frustratingly rutty (4WD needed) and frequently closed due to weather-inflicted damage. Even the well trained and outfitted are not allowed to ascend the glacier without a local guide; contact the National Park Visitor Centre in Malarrif for more information.

  • See

    Malarrif

    About 2km south of Djúpalónssandur, a paved road leads down to the rocket-shaped lighthouse at Malarrif, from where you can walk 1km east along the cliffs to the rock pillars at Lóndrangar (an eroded crater; it also has its own parking off Rte 574), which surge up into the air in surprising pinnacles. Locals say that elves use the lava formations as a church. A bit further to the east lie the Þúfubjarg bird cliffs, also accessible from Rte 574. The National Park Visitor Centre – Gestastofa is here.

  • See

    Saxhöll Crater

    Southeast of the Öndverðarnes area, on Rte 574, follow the marked turn-off to the roadside scoria crater Saxhöll, which was responsible for some of the lava in the area. There’s a drivable track leading to the base, from where it’s an uneven 300m climb for magnificent views over the enormous Neshraun lava flows.

  • See

    Vatnshellir

    This 8000-year-old lava tube with multiple caverns lies 32m below the earth’s surface, 1km north of Malarrif. The pull-out is visible from Rte 574, and the tube can only be visited by guided tour with Summit Adventure Guides.