Justin Foulkes
North Iceland
Iceland’s mammoth and magnificent north is a geologist’s heaven. A wonderland of moonlike lava fields, belching mudpots, epic waterfalls, snowcapped peaks and whale-filled bays – this is Iceland at its best. The region’s top sights are variations on a couple of themes: the grumbling, volcanically active earth, and water and ice coursing towards the broad coast.
There are endless treats to discover: little Akureyri, with its surprising moments of big-city living; windy fjordside pastures full of stout Viking horses; and fishing villages clinging tenaciously to life at the end of unsealed roads.
Prepare to be enticed by offshore islands populated by colonies of seabirds and a few hardy locals; lonely peninsulas stretching out towards the Arctic Circle; white-water rapids ready to deliver an adrenaline kick; national-park walking trails to reach unparalleled views; unhyped and underpopulated ski fields; and underwater marvels that woo divers into frigid depths.
Latest Stories from North Iceland
Top attractions
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout North Iceland.
See
Drangey
The tiny rocky islet of Drangey ( drown -gay), in the middle of Skagafjörður, is a dramatic flat-topped mass of volcanic tuff with 180m-high sheer cliffsides rising abruptly from the water. The cliffs serve as nesting sites for around a million seabirds (puffins, guillemots, gannets, kittiwakes, fulmar, shearwaters and predatory gyrfalcons), and have been used throughout Iceland’s history as ‘nature’s grocery store’ (for locals seeking birds and eggs). Drangey Tours offers fabulous three-hour boat trips to Drangey. Grettir’s Saga recounts that both outlaw hero Grettir and his brother Illugi lived on the island for three years and were slain there. Brave (foolhardy?) saga fans come to the area to recreate Grettir’s feat, swimming the 7km between Drangey and Reykir. Note that puffins have usually departed Drangey by mid-August.
See
Herring Era Museum
Lovingly created over 16 years, this award-winning museum does a stunning job of recreating Siglufjörður’s boom days between 1903 and 1968, when it was the herring-fishing capital of Iceland. Set in three buildings that were part of an old Norwegian herring station, the museum brings the work and lives of the town’s inhabitants vividly to life. From left to right, the first building holds photographs, displays and a 1930s English film of the fishing and salting process, while upstairs the accommodation block looks as though the workers have just left. Next door is a recreated reducing plant, where herrings were separated into oil (a valuable commodity) and meal (used for fertiliser). The third building gives a sense of harbour life, with trawler boats and equipment based on life on the busy pier during the boom days. Your ticket includes admission to the Icelandic Folk Music Centre.
See
Dimmuborgir
The giant jagged lava field at Dimmuborgir (literally ‘Dark Castles’) is one of the most fascinating flows in the country. A series of nontaxing, colour-coded walking trails runs through the easily anthropomorphised landscape. The most popular path is the easy Church Circle (2.3km). Check with the visitor centre in Reykjahlíð or at the cafe at Dimmuborgir about free guided ranger walks in summer. It’s commonly believed that Dimmuborgir's strange pillars and crags were created about 2000 years ago when a lake of lava from the Þrengslaborgir and Lúdentarborgir crater rows formed here, over marshland or a small lake. The water of the marsh started to boil, and steam jets rose through the molten lava and cooled it, creating the pillars. As the lava continued flowing towards lower ground, the hollow pillars of solidified lava remained.
See
Lofthellir
The dramatic lava cave at Lofthellir is a stunning destination, with magnificent natural ice sculptures dominating the interior. Although it's one of Mývatn’s highlights, the cave is on private property and can only be accessed on a half-day tour with Geo Travel. The tour involves a one-hour 4WD journey and a 25-minute walk across gorgeous lava fields to reach the cave, and then the donning of special equipment (headlamps, studded boots etc) and intensely physical wriggling through tight spaces. Wear warm, waterproof gear. Winter tours cross snowfields. In summer, you can cycle to the cave with Mývatn Activity – Hike&Bike. While Geo travel runs the tours, they can also be booked via Saga Travel.
See
Hverfjall
Dominating the lava fields on the eastern edge of Mývatn is the classic tephra ring Hverfjall (also called Hverfell). This near-symmetrical crater appeared 2700 years ago in a cataclysmic eruption. Rising 452m from the ground and stretching 1040m across, it is a massive and awe-inspiring landmark in Mývatn. The crater is composed of loose gravel, but an easy track leads from the northwestern end (toilets here) to the summit and offers stunning views of the crater itself and the surrounding landscape. A path runs along the western rim of the crater to a lookout at the southern end before descending steeply towards Dimmuborgir. Access the walking track via a signed gravel road – it's about 2.5km from the main road to the car park.
See
Leirhnjúkur
Krafla’s most impressive, and potentially most dangerous, attraction is the Leirhnjúkur crater and its solfataras, which originally appeared in 1727, starting out as a lava fountain and spouting molten material for two years before subsiding. A well-defined track leads northwest to Leirhnjúkur from the Krafla parking area (which has toilets); with all the volcanic activity, high temperatures, bubbling mudpots and steaming vents, it's best not to stray from the marked paths. In 1975 the Krafla Fires began with a small lava eruption by Leirhnjúkur, and after nine years of on-and-off action Leirhnjúkur became the ominous-looking, sulphur-encrusted mudhole that tourists love today. The earth’s crust here is extremely thin and in places the ground is ferociously hot.
See
Sigurgeir’s Bird Museum
For superb birdwatching background, visit Sigurgeir’s Bird Museum, housed in a beautiful lakeside building that fuses modern design with traditional turf house. Inside you’ll find an impressive collection of taxidermic avians (more than 180 types from around the world), including every species of bird that calls Iceland home (except one – the grey phalarope). Detailed captions, designer lighting and a small cafe further enhance the experience. The menagerie of stuffed squawkers started as the private collection of a local named Sigurgeir Stefansson. Tragically, Sigurgeir drowned in the lake at the age of 37 – the museum was erected in his honour. The museum also lends out high-tech telescopes to ornithological enthusiasts, plus it has hides for rent.
See
Hverir
The magical, ochre-toned world of Hverir (also called Hverarönd) is a lunar-like landscape of mud cauldrons, steaming vents, radiant mineral deposits and piping fumaroles. Belching mudpots and the powerful stench of sulphur may not sound enticing, but Hverir’s ethereal allure grips every passer-by. Safe trails through the features have been delineated by ropes; to avoid risk of serious injury and damage to the natural features, avoid any lighter-coloured soil and respect the ropes. A walking trail loops from Hverir up Námafjall ridge. This 30-minute climb provides a grand vista over the steamy surroundings.
See
Skútustaðagígar
The Skútustaðagígar pseudocraters were formed when molten lava flowed into Mývatn lake, triggering a series of gas explosions. These dramatic green dimples then came into being when trapped subsurface water boiled and popped, forming small scoria cones and craters. The most accessible pseudocrater swarm is located along a short path just across from Skútustaðir, which also takes in the nearby pond, Stakhólstjörn, a haven for nesting waterfowl.