Built on a low-lying estuary where the Gêba River flows into the Atlantic, apart from the hectic traffic, Bissau is a low-key, unassuming capital. On the main artery from the airport to the centre, ramshackle taxis and toca-tocas jostle for space with SUVs sporting international-aid-organisation decals. Crowds of shoppers at roadside markets have little more elbow room.In the early evening, the fading sunlight lends...
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