Matt Munro

Thuringian Forest & the Saale Valley

If most of the larger towns of Thuringia are about culture, the Thuringian Forest (Thüringer Wald in German) and the Saale Valley are about tradition, scenic landscapes, and winegrowing. These regions take in Eisenach, known for the Wartburg, the spectacular castle that has played such a central role in German history, and where Luther sought protection after being excommunicated, the Saale-Unstrut wineland, as well as a cluster of small, historic towns dotting the countryside. Hiking, especially along the Rennsteig, is excellent here. Follow it far enough south and you will end up on the border of Bavaria.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Thuringian Forest & the Saale Valley.

  • Castle

    Wartburg

    When it comes to medieval castles and their importance in German history, Eisenach's Unesco-listed Wartburg dominates the landscape. This huge medieval castle, 40,000 tonnes of sandstone on a craggy hill, has featured in a millennium of German history, and is where Martin Luther, excommunicated and under papal ban, translated the New Testament, in the process codifying the written German language. Allow at least two hours: one for the guided tour, and the remainder for the museum, Luther's rooms and the views.

  • Palace

    Schloss Wilhelmsburg

    Overlooking Schmalkalden, the late-Renaissance Schloss Wilhelmsburg was built between 1585 and 1590 by Landgrave Wilhelm IV of Hessen as a hunting lodge and summer residence. Since then, it has largely kept its original design, with lavish murals and stucco decorating most rooms, of which the Riesensaal, with its coffered and painted ceiling, and the Festsaal are the most impressive. The playfully decorated Schlosskirche has a rare wooden organ, thought to be the oldest working organ of its type in Europe.

  • Palace

    Dornburger Schlösser

    About 15km north of Jena, you'll find this hillside trilogy of magnificently restored palaces in medieval, Renaissance and rococo styles, with stunning views and immaculate gardens. The Altes Schloss, the oldest, blends Romanesque, late-Gothic and baroque elements, but can only be viewed from the outside. You can enter both the 1539 Renaissance Palace (where Goethe sought solitude after the death of his patron, Duke Carl August) and the youngest, most beautiful Rococo Palace, used for temporary exhibitions, concerts and weddings.

  • Museum

    Bachhaus

    Comprising two 15th-century houses knocked together in the early 17th century, this is Johann Sebastian Bach's actual birthplace, and an international site of pilgrimage for music lovers. Founded in 1907 and still one of Germany’s best biographical museums, the Bachhaus traces his professional and private life through exhibits with bilingual panelling, culminating in the modern annexe, where you can hover in bubble chairs listening to his sublime compositions. Admission includes a 20-minute concert on baroque keyboards, played on the hour.

  • Historic Building

    Lutherhaus

    The religious reformer Martin Luther lived here as a schoolboy from 1498 to 1501, in one of Thuringia's oldest and most handsome half-timbered houses. Now including a modern annexe, the museum's permanent collection focuses on his life and translation of the Bible, an essential step in unifying and codifying the German language. Special exhibitions (on subjects such as Catholic views on Luther's heresy) are intriguing, although you can opt out for a lower entrance price (€6/4).

  • Planetarium

    Zeiss Planetarium

    The world’s oldest public planetarium (1926) has a state-of-the-art dome projection system, making it a heavenly setting for cosmic laser shows paying tribute to music legends such as Pink Floyd and Queen, or sending the kids deep into outer space. Show times and pricing varies by program; check the website for details.

  • Cave

    Feengrotten & Feenweltchen

    These former alum slate mines (operational from 1530 to 1850) were opened for tours in 1914 and rank among the world’s most colourful caverns, imbued with shades of brown, ochre, sienna, green and blue. Small stalactites and stalagmites add to the surreal appearance, the highlight of which is the Fairytale Cathedral and its Holy Grail Castle. The Feenweltchen ('Fairy World', open May to October) is an outdoor trail, weaving its way through a fun obstacle course of elves, fairies and spirits.

  • Museum

    Optisches Museum

    Carl Zeiss began building rudimentary microscopes in 1846 and, with Ernst Abbe’s help, developed the first scientific microscope in 1857. Together with Otto Schott, the founder of Jenaer Glaswerke (glass works), they pioneered the production of optical precision instruments, which propelled Jena to prominence in the early 20th century. Founded in 1922, this museum now tells the connected stories of their lives and the evolution of optical technology through interactive exhibits featuring 3D holograms. Tours take in Zeiss's 1866 workshop.

  • Museum

    Stadtmuseum & Kunstsammlung Jena

    This handsome fachwerk townhouse at the northern end of the market square dates in part to the 13th century. It now houses the Stadtmuseum (city museum) where you can learn how Jena evolved into a centre of philosophy and science and also the city's Kunstsammlung (art collection) with changing exhibitions on themes such as Marx's 200th birthday, augmenting a permanent collection of mostly 20th-century works.